Crêpes Suzettes

As you may know, crêpe is a traditional French dish that originated from Bretagne, or Brittany, a cultural region in the north-west of France. In the past, crêpes were exclusively served on Candlemas {la Chandeleur as we call it in France}, celebrated every February 2nd. Nowadays, no specific occasion is required to enjoy these little delights whose popularity has greatly exceed the French border. Believe it or not, most crêperies are in France what fast food restaurants are for America. In Bretagne however, traditional crêperies are still around and more glamorous versions are also showing up.

The crêpe gender can be divided in two distinct groups. The salty version also known as crêpes salées or galettes, is made with buckwheat flour and can be accommodated with a variety of savory fillings. The galettes are served as an entrée and are traditionally enjoyed with a glass of Cidre, a traditional alcoholic drink made with apples. The sweet crêpes, or crêpes Suzettes, are served for dessert or as an afternoon snack. Unlike most recipes which are made with water, these crepes Suzettes are prepared with milk and heavy cream giving them a rich and silky texture. I hope you’ll enjoy them!

Crêpes Suzettes
{Yield: 24 crêpes}.

2 cups (250g) sifted flour
4 eggs
2 ¾ cup (650ml) cold boiled milk
¾ cup (200g) heavy cream
2 ½ tbsp (30g) sugar
1 tbsp of finally grated lemon rind
½ vanilla bean, split in 2
1 pinch of salt
1 tbsp (30g) butter
Sugar and lemon zest for serving

Pour the milk in a saucepan with the vanilla bean and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Let it cool down completely, letting the vanilla bean infuses its delicate flavor.

In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar and salt. Add the eggs, two at a time, mixing them well with a spatula. Strain one third of the cold milk and mixed until smooth and homogenous. Finally, whisk in the heavy cream, the lemon zest and the rest of the milk. Let the crepe batter rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature, which will allow it to thicken. Well covered, the batter can be kept in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Heat a small non-stick pan and add butter to coat. Pour 1 ounce of batter into the center of the pan and swirl to spread evenly. Cook for 30 seconds and flip. Cook for another 10 seconds and remove from the heat. Sprinkle with sugar and lemon zest.

{Antique french plate from GDA Limoges - Circa 1941 - 1953, and my great grand-mother linen}

Heavenly winter desserts ... 100% pears

For the holidays, we were really happy to receive a a box filled of goodies from our family. This shipment from Harry and David included a box of Royal Riviera pears, an heirloom Comice pear that originated in Anjou. {A region in the lower Loire Valley of western France.} As soon as I saw these gorgeous fruits, I knew I had to bake them into something heavenly. After some research through my baking binders, I found 2 recipes that would suit that delicious Comice pear, which also happen to be my favorite.

The first one is a caramelized pears tart with a mascarpone cream. I was interested in trying this recipe because of its unusual crust: a typical shortbread from Brittany. Usually made with salted butter, this shortbread dough also include baking powder to give it a flaky texture. The contrast of a salty and flaky crust with the smoothness of the mascarpone cream, and the melting caramelized pears is simply out of this world .... Needless to say to say that this recipe has become a keeper.!!



The second recipe is a light winter delight ... poached pears in a vanilla syrup, a recipe from Pierre Hermé. Les poires au sirop vanillé as we call them in French, is a refreshing way to end a meal. Rich in flavor but still respecting the integrity of the fruit, this desert is to be enjoyed without {almost} no moderation.

I had some extra dough from the caramelized pears tart, so I baked some shortbread cookies that worked really well with these poached pears.

Caramelized pears tart with a mascarpone cream
(Recipe for 6 persons)

Shortbread crust
200 gr flour
150 gr soften butter
130 gr sugar
2 egg yolks
13 gr baking powder
6 gr Kosher salt or sea salt

Filling
3 pears
2 tbs butter
1 tbs Honey
50 gr pistachios
50 ml Rhum or Brandi
250 gr mascarpone
100 gr sugar

Preparing the shortbread crust
On a standmixer fitted with a paddle attachment, mix the egg yolk and sugar. Them add the butter, flour, baking powder and salt. Finish working with your hands to make sure the dough is homogenous. Do not overwork. Let it rest for at least one hour in the fridge covered with a plastic film. Roll the dough and fill a 22cm / 9 inch pastry ring or pie pan. {I like my crust to be rather thick to mimic a shortbread.}
Cook at 160°C / 320°F until golden, about 20 minutes. Let it cool down.

Preparing the caramelized pears
Sear the pears, cut in halves with the butter and honey. Once melted, added the Rhum or Brandi and pistachios. Let it reduce and caramelized.

Finishing the tart
Mix the mascarpone and sugar, and spread on the tart crust. Top with the caramelized pear.

Poached pears with a vanilla syrup from Pierre Hermé
(Recipe for 4 to 6 pears - From the cookbook Le Larousse des Desserts)

4 - 6 pears
500 ml water
250 gr sugar
2 lemons
1 vanilla bean (split and scraped)

Peel and core the pears to remove all the seeds. Rub them with the juice of 1 lemon.

In a large saucepan, combine the water, sugar, vanilla bean and the juice of a half lemon. Add the pears and bring to a boil. Cook on a gentle boil for 10 - 15 minutes. Test the readiness with a knife, the pears still need to be slightly firm. Let them cool down, and keep in the fridge for at least 3 hours, overnight is better. Enjoy!

Homemade sticky buns and pineapple jam ... {Resistance is futile}

There is no secret to the fact that I love baking and I love learning even more. Every time I have an opportunity to follow a workshop given by some talented chefs such as at L'institut Gastronomique Riviera, I literally jump on the occasion with a lot of anticipation. I found a great place here in Orange County where I live, which is called Black Market Bakery. The owner Chef Rachel Klemek is a fabulous baker who offers cooking classes when the shop is closed.

So far, I have taken 2 classes, one of them being on danishes and croissants. During the class, I learned that the danish dough is the secret ingredient to the perfect sticky buns. And indeed, it is ... Every single person that tasted that sticky bun recipe told me this is the best they every had ... Off course, a lot of butter always help -)



"Rolling in" the danish dough can be intimidating. But in fact, it is quite an easy process. Off course, taking a class where a chef is making a demo is the best way to go. There are also a lot of videos on Youtube which can greatly inspire you.

Instead of using the traditional {honey - maple - butter} filling, I chose to use a homemade pineapple and vanilla jam. That idea was totally inspired by Tito's Downtown Cafe & Bakery, a really neat bakery in panama City, FL. We always go to Panama City on Labour Day weekend, and this last September, we tried this new bakery and its pineapple sticky buns that was straight out of the oven. A subtle explosion of flavors. I decided I had to tried this at home.




Homemade sticky buns with a pineapple jam
(Recipe for 24 servings - You can use 1/3 of the dough and freeze the rest for later use - Recipe courtesy of Black Market Bakery)

Danish dough
300g milk
30g dry yeast (Double for fresh yeast) 7 egg yolks
100g sugar
15g salt
85 soft unsalted butter
750g bread flour

450g cold unsalted butter
50g all purpose flour

Filling and finishing
50g Sugar
5g Cinnamon
Heavy cream

Preparing the Danish dough

Pour the milk, yeast and egg yolk into the stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, If making by hand, pour these items into a large bowl. Next add the bread flour, sugar, salt and soft butter.

Turn the mixer on low speed {or knead by hand} and mix the dough until it starts to come together. At this point you may turn the mixer up to medium low and continue to "knead " the dough until it starts to become smooth and elastic. If the dough is over mixed at this point, the gluten may be too tight to fold butter in. Set the dough aside on a floured sheet pan, cover with plastic, and let it rest.


Preparing the "Roll in"
Use the same mixer bowl {now fitted with the paddle attachmentc. Put the cold water and the flour {The last 2 ingredients} into the bowl. Mix on medium high speed until the butter absorbs all the flour and has no lumps. Do no let the butter get warm.

Roll the butter to a 1" thick rectangle, Use lots of flour when rolling the butter so it doesn't stick to the table. You can always dust the flour off later. {You also have the option to roll it inside two wax papers.}

If the butter seems warm, place it on a sheet pan & let it chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Once the butter and dough are ready {They should both be cool, firm and pliable}, roll the dough to 1/2 sheet pan size. The butter should be half the size of the dough.

Place the butter onto half of the dough. Dust the extra flour and fold the dough over the butter. Seal the edges by smashing them down {This is the "Lock in"} then turn 90 degrees and roll 3X the size. Mentally divide the dough into thirds. Now fold one third over the center third. Fold the other third over the center two. Third is the first fold.



Poke one finger into the dough, cover and set aside in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes.

Pull the dough out, turn the dough 90 degrees so the folded edges are at the top and bottom. Roll again to 3X and do the 3 fold again. Poke two fingers into the edge of the dough. Cover and chill for 15 minutes.

Finally pull the dough out, rotate it 90 degrees and do the last fold. At this point the dough should be wrapped well and placed in the freezer for at least 1 hour. Transfer the dough from the freezer to the refrigerator before using. {I like to leave the dough overnight in the freezer then let it thaw out in the fridge the next morning}.

Preparing the sticky buns

Spread the pineapple jam in a pie dish. Combine sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the danish dough to rectangles. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and roll the dough into a tight log. Cut small segments and place them in the pie dish. It doesn't matter if the segments are not all equal in size. I like my sticky buns to look "Home-made" ... imperfect in look! Leave enough space between them since the dough will be proofing. Cover with a plastic wrap and let proof for a couple of hour {or more, until they double in size}.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375°F - 190°C. Brush the buns with heavy cream and bake for 35 - 40 minutes or until golden.

Pineapple jam
(Yield 750ml)

1.5 kg finely chopped peeled cored fresh pineapple
400g sugar
1 small lemon
175ml water
1 Vanilla bean

In a large, deep stainless steel saucepan, combined pineapple, lemon and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly to dissolve sugar. Boil, stirring frequently, until mixture thickens, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and skim off foam.

The jam is ready to be used at this point. You can keep it in the fridge for 2 weeks, or process them in a water bath for 15 minutes in safe & clean preserve jars.
{For more info on preserving, I recommend the Complete Book of Home Preserving from Ball}.

La tarte aux pêches ... Recipe from a chef pâtissier

Last week, I was sharing with you the baking class I took at the Institut Gastronomie Riviera. My experience was really great, and I learned a lot of tricks from Nicolas Denis, one of the best pastry chefs in France. This week, I promised I will share the recipe of the fabulous tarte aux pêches that was on the menu of this class... So here we go!

The following recipe can be used with all kind of fruits, even raw ones such as berries. In this case, you will cook your crust and almond cream first, then add the fruits last. If you do not want to use the Crème d'amande, you can replace it with a fruit jelly or even better ... a mix of 3/4 of Crème pâtissière and 1/4 of whipped cream. In both case, you will only cook your crust, then add your filling and raw fruits.

The trickiest part of the recipe is making the Pâte sucrée (Pastry dough). As you will read through the recipe, you may find yourself intimidated ... but please don't. Even if mastery may require many attempts, I can assure you that the tart will taste incredible even on your first trial.

With time, you will gradually improve the quality and crispiness of this dough by achieving the perfect consistency.

Don't forget ... It is supposed to be a fun learning experience!
I do remind that to myself all the time -)

La Tarte aux pêches
(Recipe for 6 servings - I recommend the use of a precise electronic scale)

Pastry dough (Pâte sucrée)
225g flour
95g powder sugar (Starch free if possible)
150g butter at room temperature
30g almond powder
1 egg
1.5g vanilla powder
1g salt

Almond cream (Crème d'amande)
1 egg + 1 yolk at room temperature
80g sugar
80g butter at room temperature
80g almond powder

Topping (Garniture)
5 white peaches
150g sugar
30g pistachios

Preparing the pâte sucrée

Combine the butter, sugar, almond powder, salt and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Then add flour and egg, proceeding alternatively if you are doing more than 1 batch. Work on low speed to make sure not too much air is added to the dough, and do not overwork to keep it crispy.

Once done, form into a disk on a cooking sheet lined with parchment paper, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 3 hours, overnight being ideal. At this stage, you can freeze the dough for up to 1 month.

The next step called "Fraisage" is crucial to the success and the quality of the dough. The Fraisage technique involves the gently rolling of the dough under your palm until it becomes elastic and stop breaking apart*. Make sure you work in a cool environment, and the use of a cold surface such as a marble pastry board is ideal. The goal is to keep the dough at a relatively low temperature which means that you may have to refrigerate it in between steps. Two other important elements: do not overwork, and use as few flour as possible.
* If you are unsure on how it works, I would suggest you look on Youtube for Fraisage technique

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

Butter a 22cm (8" ⅔) tart ring* (or a nonstick tart pan with a removable bottom). Using an adjustable rolling pin, roll the dough with to a 3mm (1/9 inch) thick. Pierce dough prior to baking to eliminate air pockets and minimize rising with a dough prickle or a fork. Cut the dough with a 26cm (10" ¼) or 28cm (11") tart ring, or eyeball it if you don't have any. Press the dough into the circle, gently pushing it to the bottom. Cut the exceeding dough at the top with a knife.
* You can buy tart rings from specialized pastry vendors such as Pastry Chef Central

Bake the dough on a baking sheet for 10 to 15 minutes until it almost cooked and with a caramel color. Let it cool of before proceeding with the almond cream. This step is called "Le Fonçage".

Preparing the crème d'amandes

Combine the butter, powdered sugar, almond powder, and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Insert the cream in a pastry bag. Starting from the center, pipe the cream into the crust that should have cooled down by now. Using a little spatula, smooth the cream to make it evenly distributed.

Preparing the topping

Boil the peaches for 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on how ripe they are. Transfer them in an iced water bowl. Peel the peaches and slice them evenly. Place the slices round side down in the almond cream, in an organized manner. Bake for 10 minutes at 180°C (350°F). Once cooked, sprinkle with powder sugar.

Finishing touch
The last step is making candied pistachios. When making candied pistachios, the rule of thumb is to use 30% of water to any 1kg of sugar used. Heat the sugar and water until it reach 121°C (250°F), then add the pistachios. Mix vigorously until they start to caramelized. Transfer them into baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Separate the pistachios, let them cool off, then sprinkle them on the tart.

Et Voila...
You are now mastering the making of la tarte aux pêches!!

La Tarte Tropézienne, dessert for the jet set

Last week, in my article about Saint Tropez, I introduced la Tarte Tropézienne that was invented by a local baker, and became famous during the filming of the cult movie "And God Created Woman" (Et Dieu … créa la femme) in 1956. All the movie casts were so thrilled by the creamy cake, that its inventor, Alexandre Micka, decided to register the name and patented the recipe. La Tarte Tropézienne became a huge success with the stars and other jet setters vacationing in St Trop. The rest is history.

When you go to St Tropez, you will quickly realize that almost every pâtisserie shop is selling the famous pie. Of course, everybody has their own recipe, and it is an impossible task to find the one that will create the perfect combination of lightness without compromising the flavors. The secret lies in the quality of the Crème pâtissière (vanilla custard) that is spread inside the cake.

While making some searches for the perfect combination, I was lucky to find a recipe of la Tarte Tropézienne developped by Christophe Felder, ex chef pâtissier at the Crillon, a five stars Parisian palace. The recipe is not very difficult to execute, but does require a stand mixer and 2h30 to proof. The result is a delicate creamy cake with a delicious and light Crème pâtissière that will make you say ... Encore! Why not surprise your guests or family with this unusual dessert. Open a bottle of rosé from Le Château d'Esclans and you can definitely pretend for a moment that you are jet setting on the French Riviera. Bon Appétit!

The creamy custard is flavored with vanilla beans and orange blossom extract.


La Tarte Tropézienne can be enjoyed with some red berries or premium vanilla ice cream.


Napkin and placemat from Les Olivades, a company from Marseilles that has been creating premium Provençal textiles and tableware since 1648

La Tarte Tropézienne
(Recipe for 8 servings - I strongly recommend the use of a precise electronic scale)

Brioche dough (Pâte briochée)
50g + 225g flour
40g milk, room temperature
10g fresh yeast, flaked
40g sugar
15 cl (5 fl oz) milk
1 egg, room temperature
5g salt
60g soft butter
1 tbsp Rum or Brandy (optional)

Vanilla custard (Crème pâtissière)
1 egg + 1 yolk
50g sugar
40g soft butter
25g cornstarch (Maizena)
50g whipped cream
4 tbsp orange blossom extract
25 cl (8.5 fl oz) milk
1 vanilla bean, split in half longwise

Finishing touches (Dorure)
1 egg
50g hail sugar
powdered sugar

Preparing the pâte briochée

Gently combine the yeast, 50g flour and 40g milk with a spatula in your stand mixer bowl. Cover with 225g flour (don't stir), and let proof for 1 hour at room temperature. After that, the levain (sourdough) should have created some furrows in the flour, meaning it's ready to be worked.

Add the sugar, salt, 15 cl milk and egg, and mix for 1 minute. Add the 60g soften butter and rum, and mix for 10 another minutes. The dough should detach itself from the bowl and be "elastic". Wrap in plastic and let rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Preparing the crème pâtissière

In a saucepan, boil the milk with the vanilla bean and let it infuse for 15 minutes (up to 30 minutes). Discard the vanilla bean and whip in the sugar, cornstarch, and eggs. Put the saucepan back on medium heat while stirring constantly with a wire whip until the cream starts to thicken. Remove from the heat, and quickly add the soft butter and let it cool off. When almost cold, incorporate with a spatula the orange blossom extract, then with great care, the whipped cream. The crème pâtissière is ready. Cover and keep in the fridge.

Assembling the cake

Flour your work station and roll the dough to fit a 10” (26cm) pie tin. Tuck the brioche dough in a greased pie or flan tin, cover with a cloth and let proof for 45 minutes at room temperature.

Preheat your oven at 350˚F (175˚C) 15 minutes before the end of the proofing. Beat the egg and apply on the top of the dough. Sprinkle with the hail sugar and bake for 25 minutes.

Finishing the Tarte Tropeziénne
Once baked and cooled, split the cake in half using a serrated knife, and spread the crème pâtissière on the bottom side. Put the top side back and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Refrigerate before serving.

The Tarte Tropeziénne can be kept 5 days in the fridge, but it is my absolute promise that it won't last that long!

Notes
This recipe was first published in the delicious French magazine Elle a Table. Christophe Felder has published many different cookbooks that may inspire you to more French cooking.