La Bonne Etape: Petit déjeuner in Haute-Provence

A stop at La Bonne Etape has become a custom for us when driving from our country house in Provence to the Northern part of France. So far, I only have stopped for a gastronomical lunch, but never had the chance to spend the night in that peaceful Relais & Châteaux. So while I was in France last summer, we decided to break that rule and sleep over at La Bonne Etape.

On our way back from Paris and back home, it was a well deserved break. First of all, the small village of Château-Arnoux where the hotel is located, is quite charming; almost lost in the dramatic backdrop of Haute-Provence. The other advantage of this stay was that it would allows us to take the Route Napoléon (known as the N85), the 96 miles (154 km) road that will bring us back home while enjoying the pittoresque countryside of Provence.

The 18 bedrooms and suites of La Bonne Etape are elegantly decorated with traditional Provençal furniture, and radiate a warm cozy feeling. It felt for me like if I was a child again, spending my summer holidays at my grand parents' home. Each room has a view on the countryside, some even have their own terrace. If you need to unwind from the hustle and bustle of big cities, you definitely would find happiness here.

No modern magnetic keys, but rather a traditional one with a silver olive branch keychain.


Junior suite with a patio


My bedroom


Local delicacies


My bedroom appointed with traditional Provençal furniture


The view from my bedroom

After a fabulous dinner and a peaceful night, what a treat to open the window and push the shutters, to see the glorious blue sky of Provence. The bright light, the fragrance of the nature, every element seemed to be conspiring to make sure I was starting the day on the right foot. For the petit déjeuner, we decided to go by the pool under the pergola to fully immerse in nature.

Homemade jams, freshly squeezed juices, apricots just picked up from the garden tree, and freshly made croissants and brioches... What else would I need?
Nothing ... I was having my Petit déjeuner in paradise.

The Main patio where guests can enjoy their breakfast


Homemade jams & Jellies with fruits from the Chef's organic garden


Elegant table setting


Viennoiseries basket


Expresso


Freshly squeezed fruits juice


Local and organic products


The hotel's pool

Another great moment of my morning was the visit of the Chef's Garden. Chef owner Jany Gleize knows the importance of good local ingredients, so he decided to grow its own organic garden with the help of Garden Master: François Tessari. The garden is English inspired but with strong Provençal accents.

Flowers, herbs, fruits and vegetables all cohabit in an harmonious way. I wish I had so much space here in Southern California to create such a peaceful heaven. Well sometime wishes become reality, so I keep on dreaming...

Morning harvest by one of the cooks


Nature is thriving here in this organic garden


On my way to the garden


Apricot tree


Unknown blue flowers

I can't say enough how much I love this place as well as the generosity and kindness of its chef owner Jany Gleize. If you plan a travel to Haute-Provence, you owe to yourself a stay at La Bonne Etape!

For more information

La Bonne Etape****
Hotel - Restaurant
Chemin du Lac
04160 Château-Arnoux
France
Tel: +011 33 4 92 64 00 09
Three types of room available: Superior, Deluxe and Junior Suite.
Price range from 190 € to 250 € in the low season, to 235 € to 500 € in the high season.

For more information: Website and email

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.

Halekulani, landmark of luxury on Waikiki Beach

Along the busy hotel strip facing the pristine water of Waikiki Beach, is where you will find the legendary Halekulani hotel. Originally built as a private beachfront estate by Mr Lewers in 1883, Halekulani has welcomed travelers from around the world since 1917. Halekulani which means "House befitting heaven", is working hard to deliver its promise. From the beautiful floral arrangements to the attentive service and details, you will be wrapped with style in luxury.

The story of Halekulani is in many ways the story of Waikiki itself. It begins just after the turn of the 20th century, with the construction of a small residential hotel called Hau Tree, consisting of a simple beachfront home and five tiny bungalows. In 1917, Juliet and Clifford Kimball purchased the hotel and gradually expanded the operation, establishing it as a stylish resort for wealthy vacationers. They named it Halekulani and the story began... Surviving the devastating effects of the Great Depression, as well as the bombing of Pearl Harbor, Halekulani has evolved over the decades into a chic destination with the great help of a booming jet industry.

The golden era of Halekulani started in the 1950s with the visit of personalities such as Clark Gable, Rosalind Russell, and Richard Egan. France's top models and Fashions appeared also at Halekulani in spring 1956 in the first show of its kind on American soil. The black-tie event featured designs by renowned fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, Jean Patou and Ricci.

The current face of the hotel came in 1984, when it officially reopened after many months of major renovations and construction. Today, Halekulani is considered to be a world class hotel while still retaining its island charm and rich tradition of warm Hawaiian hospitality.

All the gorgeous flower arrangements displayed in the resort are created by Mrs Tanga Kamemoto, who studied under Hiroshi Teshigahara, Grand Master of the Sogetsu School of Flower arrangement in Japan.


Floral arrangements at the entrance of Orchids restaurant.


Every evening, a new little gift will be waiting for you on your bed.


Photo courtesy of Halekulani Hotel - Photo credit: Barbara Kraft

Halekulani hotel has been for decades, the most popular place to enjoy spectacular sunsets. Its casual bar - "House Without a Key" - entertains its guests every day from, 5:30pm to 8:30pm, with authentic Hawaiian songs performed by local bands under the century-old Kiawe tree*. The mood is definitely mellow as the sun's last rays dance through the branches of the Kiawe tree, casting a red-orange glow upon Diamond Head, and highlighting a sparkling ocean.
* The Hawaiian meaning of Kiawe is: To Sway

Once owned by retired Sea Captain Brown, this tranquil spot is world-famous thanks to Charlie Chan, the inscrutable Honolulu detective who always got his man and frequently coined "old Chinese proverbs". Chan's creator, novelist Earl Derr Biggers, is said to have conceived the series while staying in a nearby cottage in 1925.

His first Charlie Chan mystery - called "The House Without A Key" - focused on the keen-eyed detective's solution of a cunning murder of a former sea captain. Site of the murder was a home on this precise spot in the late 1800s. Today's House Without a Key was rebuilt in 1983 as part of the new Halekulani, in tribute to the famous Chinese detective, who is as much part of the hotel's folklore as is the great kiawe tree which has sheltered visitors on Waikiki Beach for more than a century.

The Hawaiian band: "Sunset Serenaders" (Wayne Shishido, Mahealani Stillman and Baron Bento) are playing every Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at sunset.


Hula dancer Kanoe Kaumeheiwa Miller, a former Miss Hawaii, complements the music with her graceful and traditional hula.


House Without a Key is reminiscent of a time when Hawaiian homes needed no locks.


Late afternoon light over Diamond Head, a former volcano that participated in the creation of the Island of O'ahu.

For a more refined experience, Orchids is Halekulani's casually elegant oceanfront restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant is located in the Main Building originally designed by Island architect Charles Dickey, and completed in 1932. The building, previously known as Lewers House, is still regarded even after some major renovations, as one of O'ahu's landmark due to its rich history. The building is crowned by the refurbished and distinctive South Pacific high-pitched roof (known today as the "Dickey" roof) which keeps the interiors cool.

Orchids is considered one of the most beautiful restaurants in all Hawaii. Boasting lovely views of Diamond Head and an abundance of signature flowers, this celebrated restaurant seems to do everything right. The focus is on seafood from the Big Island. Chef Darryl Fujita is well known for his large selection of sushi and sashimi, as well as his seafood feast for two featuring island sourced Kona lobster, Onaga and Kahuku shrimp steamed with kaffir lime leaves and served with a trio of aïolis (saffron-garlic, harissa and miso). We also enjoyed a very nice seared foie gras at dinner time, so the menu is catering to all types of palates.

During the week, the restaurant serves a traditional American breakfast that comes with an exceptional selection of teas and freshly squeezed juice. On Sundays, Orchids' famous brunch served from 9:30am to 2:30pm, is called legendary and was voted "Oahu's Best Brunch" in 2009 by Honolulu Magazine. The elegant buffet style event is complemented by classic music performed by a duo of harpist and flutist. Because of the incredible scenery, we would recommend to ask for a table on the beachside patio when you make a reservation.

Both restaurants Orchids, on the main level, and La Mer, on the first floor, are located inside the historical Main Building.


Elegant breakfast at Orchids - the perfect way to start the day.


Yellow orchids, the restaurant signature flowers, can be found on each table.


Halekulani popovers - an island favorite since 1917, served with Guava jam and whipped butter.

If you are looking for a gastronomical experience, La Mer (which means the sea in French), is exactly what you are looking for. Celebrated as Halekulani's finest and Hawaii's longest, consecutively ranked AAA Five Diamond Restaurant, La Mer offers a neoclassic cuisine developed by French Chef Yves Garnier, who cooked at La Coupole in Monaco for 20 years as well as at The San Francisco and Palm Beach Ritz Carltons. Chef Garnier has been running the kitchen since 1995 and has recently stepping down but is still involve in the operations.

Fresh local ingredients form the foundation of Garnier's dishes, but they are prepared with traditional French techniques. We enjoyed a nice fish soup that chef Garnier used to cook in Monaco, as well as some local fish that definitely sound exotic if you do not live on the Island. The food was well prepared and elegantly presented. The service was very attentive, and the breezy view overlooking the Pacific was quite enjoyable. La Mer also features an impressive wine list as well as a nice selection of wine by the glass, and to start your evening in style, you will receive a complementary glass of champagne on your arrival.

La Mer restaurant - The lounge inside the Main Building.


La Mer and executive chef Yves Garnier, who formerly owned a one Michelin star restaurant in Monaco.


Elegant flower decor at La Mer's lounge.


La Mer restaurant - Photo courtesy of Halekulani Hotel - Photo Credit: Barbara Kraft

Thought I'd already been to 'Heaven' until I came to Halekulani ...
Eugene Cernan
Last Apollo astronaut to walk on the moon

For more information

Halekulani hotel
2199 Kalia Road
Honolulu, HI, 96815
USA
Tel: (808) 923 2311
Website

Rates

Standard room with garden courtyard view starts at $470 per night that includes free WIFI, and a plate of fresh fruits and chocolates on your arrival. Overnight parking is $22 a day.
If you are a AAA member, you are eligible for a discount, so inquire when you book.
Our review: Being a AAA member, we were offered a discounted room at $423. At our arrival, we were upgraded for a "partial ocean view", which we greatly appreciated. On the downside, we found the room a little bit outdated for our taste, and we were directly facing the second tower of the hotel which meant that privacy was a bit limited. On the plus side, service was impeccable. We enjoyed the private registration in our room, and found the staff to be genuinely professional and friendly. If your budget allows, we would recommend to upgrade for an ocean front room.

House Without A Key (Casual bar and restaurant)
Open everyday from 7am to 9pm (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)
Live music every day from 5h30pm to 8H30pm.
First come first served, so plan to arrive early to enjoy sunset cocktail as this is one of the hot spots of Honolulu to enjoy the sunset.
Our review: We enjoyed every bit of our happy hours spent at House Without A Key. The music, the hula dance, and the very affordable drinks and side food, makes it our favorite place in the hotel for a true Hawaiian experience.

Orchids (Casual elegant restaurant)
Open everyday for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Reservation recommended: (808) 923-2311
Day Service: Resort Attire
Dinner Service: Collared shirts and slacks for gentlemen, evening attire for ladies.
Price for two guests (Excluding alcohol, taxes & gratuities): Breakfast $50 - $70, Lunch $70 - $100 (Executive lunch offers three courses for $34), Dinner $130 - $150 (Degustation menu offered at $65).
Our review: We paid $135 at dinner time for 2 starters, 2 entree, 1 dessert, bottled water, taxes and gratuity. On average, we paid $60 for breakfast. We did enjoyed our breakfasts more than our dinner because of the amazing view and fresh vibe that were present in the first hours of the day. The food was decent, the service attentive, but the scenery is definitely stealing the show.

La Mer (Gastronomical restaurant)
Open everyday for dinner (6pm to 10pm)
Reservation required: (808) 923-2311
Long-sleeved collared shirt or jacket required for gentlemen. La Mer restricts patrons to adults and children 8 years and older.
Price: Three courses menu $95, Four courses menu $125, Six courses menu $140, Degustation menu $165, A la carte.
Our review: We paid $280 for 2 three course menu, 2 glasses of Whispering Angel rosé, Evian, taxes and gratuity. We enjoyed our food at La Mer, as well as the beautiful scenery and the excellent service. However, we found the meal to be really overpriced. If you do frequent regularly Michelin star rated restaurants, you may have to lower you expectations while still having to pay the same price. Overall, La Mer is worth giving a try, especially if you want to impress your date and don't mind the price tag. You will have a very romantic soirée.

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Hawaii to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.

La Maison Pic: Boutique Hotel in Harmony

Nestled in the bucolic Drôme region, an hour south of Lyon and flirting with the edge of Provence, is the charming city of Valence. Known as “The southern door of France”, Valence peacefully sits in the middle of the well-known vallée du Rhône. As we discovered last week, the main attraction of Valence is of course if you are a gastronome (food aficionado), Le restaurant Pic which is under the direction of the only female, 3 Michelin stars chef in the world. But there is more to La Maison Pic than just a gastronomical restaurant. It’s also a boutique hotel member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux chain, a cooking school and an elegant bistro.

Walking around the property, you can definitely sense a feeling of harmony thanks to the skillful work of the architect Bruno Borrione. Following its awarding of a third Michelin star, La Maison Pic has undergone a serious transformation over a 2 year period. During that time frame, the 15 hotel rooms, salons, seminar rooms and the two restaurants have all been renovated to better translate the personality and style of its new star: Anne-Sophie Pic. All this work translates in a very cohesive and tasteful style all across the establishment. The choice of texture and colors conveys a soft and modern feel while the earth tones, punctuated by some splash of pink, gently remind us that a woman leads the boat.

The two bedrooms we booked were bright, comfortable and elegant. In chamber #14 (Deluxe room), we enjoyed the large bathroom appointed with a beautiful oval bath and a rain shower. Chamber #12 (Superior room) was a bit smaller, ideal for a single person, but came with an ingenious bathroom system hidden behind a glass wall. Since we checked in around 4pm, we were welcomed with a delicious patisserie from the restaurant pastry chef Philippe Rigollot. What a better way to start this culinary journey.

Simple and elegant décor that recall the dining room color palette (Deluxe room)


The bathroom in the deluxe room showcases modern and elegant features


Each room is decorated with some colorful exotic blooms


The ingenious bathroom system in the superior room


The pink sofa is creating a stunning color contrast


A little box of chocolate will be waiting on your pillow before you fall asleep

In 2008, La Maison Pic opened Scook, L’école de Cuisine (The Cooking School). Located down the road, a few hundred meters away, Scook offers an amazing array of cooking tools and signature ingredients as well as cooking and wine classes. The school is open to all: professionals, amateurs and kids thanks to a great selection of classes. If you don’t have time for a cooking class, several cook books written by Anne-Sophie Pic are available in the store as well as online. 

Like Alice Waters’ crusade for a better food, Madame Pic is also very engaged in transmitting her passion for food and authentic taste to the new generation. She has written many cook books for children and also launched a foundation “Donnons du goût à l’enfance!” (Let’s give taste to childhood). Her work includes various workshops and projects to familiarize kids with real foods as well as nutrition. It is so inspiring to see great chefs devoting time for such causes.

The main entrance showcases a giant picture of Anne-Sophie Pic


The modern kitchen were the cooking classes are given

Another restaurant named “Le 7, Bistro Chic” is also part of the hotel. More casual than its famous neighbor, Le 7 offers a simple and refined cuisine in a modern setting. The name and décor of this bistro are honoring the Route Nationale 7 (Road 7) that was for many years before the highways were built, “la route des vacances” (The vacation road), the only way to access the French Riviera from Paris. Due to this reason, many good restaurants including several 3 Michelin stars restaurants found a natural fit with la Nationale 7, making it a real gastronomical road.

The kitchen under the direction of chef Stéphane Rossillon, offers traditional French dishes with a modern twist. Because our stay was only overnight, we did not have the chance to enjoy Le 7. But without any doubt, this modern bistro is probably one of the best “hot spot” of Valence.

Hidden behind the main building is the garden and swimming pool area. The place is very peaceful with cozy lounge chairs resting under a big olive tree and inviting us for a nap. The intimate dimension of the hotel and garden area really makes you feel like at home.

Entrance of “Le 7, Bistro Chic”


The swimming pool and garden area

Le petit-dejeuner (breakfast) was a wonderful culinary experience. Called “Matins de Pic” (Mornings from Pic), they can be enjoyed in the salons down stairs or in the comfort of your bedroom. Since we selected the later option, we were greeted with an enormous wooden tray carried by two smiling women. Discovering all the homemade goodies included in this breakfast was really part of the pleasure. Great detail and attention was given to the composition of this tray: fresh viennoiseries and bread, homemade jellies and marmalade, fresh fruits, Panna cotta, and a brioche conveniently wrapped and ready to go with you.

Le Petit-déjeuner Matins de Pic: A gourmet breakfast enjoyed in the room


Homemade marmalade and Jellies


Homemade Brioche

A visit at La Maison Pic should be included in every traveler’s bucket list. We enjoyed every aspect of our stay, from the food to the amenities, without forgetting the warm and professional team that welcomed us. Le Restaurant Pic was truly a culinary experience of a lifetime, and hopefully we’ll have many more opportunities to enjoy Madame Pic’s cuisine.

For more information

Maison Pic
285 Avenue Victor Hugo
26000 Valence
France
Tel: +33 4 75 44 15 32
Website

Rates
Superior room starting at €290 per night
Breakfast: €28
Special offers including dinner at the gastronomical restaurant are available on the website.


Le 7, Bistro Chic
Open everyday lunch and diner
Menu starting at €28 for a three servings menu
France
Tel: +33 4 75 44 53 86


Scook, L’école de Cuisine (The cooking school)
243 Avenue Victor Hugo
26000 Valence
France
Website  (Classes and website are only available in French)





Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.