Nestled in the heart of Haute-Provence and somewhat asleep in the midst of lavender and olive tree fields, La Bonne Etape definitely deserves its name of “The good stop over”. Located in Château-Arnoux on the famous Napoléon path that links the French Riviera to the Alpes, La Bonne Etape has been a well-known spot among connoisseurs for many decades as four generations of the Gleize family have successively been taking care of the old 18th century post house. For those in search of a real Provence experience, La Bonne Etape will know how to quench their thirst with elegance and authenticity.
The story of La Bonne Etape is almost a fairy tale. Pierre Gleize, a pastry chef living on the French Riviera, was on a motor bike trip when his engine broke and had to stop and spend the night in Château-Arnoux. He met Arlette whose family owned the hotel and restaurant. He fell in love and decided to settle down in Château-Arnoux. He took over the family hotel and rechristened it La Bonne Etape. The good stop over, did prove to be a good one for him.
From this union was born Jany Gleize, who is today in charge of the establishment. Being born and raised in the kitchen, chef Jany Gleize always knew he wanted to perpetuate the family tradition. He has been reinventing with great success the traditional Provençal recipes of his grandmother Gabrielle, and elevated the family restaurant to a Michelin star rated institution.
The main dining room is elegantly appointed with traditional Provençal furniture, paints and faïence ceramics.
Chef owner Jany Gleize is always around to welcome his guests.
A freshly house-made olive tapenade is served while we were looking through the menu.
Mise en bouche
Mise en bouche
La Bonne Etape boasts an impressive cellar with over 6000 bottles. We chose a Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1994 - (For more information)
La Bonne Etape restaurant has been recognized over the years as one of the best restaurant in Hautes-Provence. The tasty and seasonal menus of both restaurants always honor local products as well culinary traditions. To insure the highest quality, most of the produce are organically grown in the beautiful english & Provençal garden of the property, and chef Gleize will personally select everyday the perfect ingredients for a perfect meal.
We visited La Bonne Etape twice, in June 2010 and more recently in July 2011, which gave us the opportunity to try many different dishes from the menu. As you will see in these pictures, the presentation was always impeccable and the flavors so representative of the Provence region. The pride and love that chef Gleize is putting on every dish that is coming out of the kitchen is more than evident.
Oeuf cocotte, mélange d'herbes, morilles à la crème, gelée de crustacés (Egg en cocotte, mixed herbs, morels in cream, and shellfish frost) - €22
Fleurs de courgettes farcies, sauce pomme d'amour (Stuffed zucchini flowers, marinated tomato sauce) - €22
Saumon d'Ecosse fumé à la maison en bateau (Scottish house smoked salmon) - €25, and Foie gras de canard poêlé (Pan-Seared duck Foie Gras) - €29
Homard et Cannelloni au vert (Lobster and its green cannelloni) - €49
Homard et Cannelloni au vert (Lobster and its green cannelloni) - €49
La Haute Provence is a well-known region for its lamb farming. The pristine air and altitude, combined with the typical Provençal vegetation makes L'agneau de Sisteron (the lamb from Sisteron) the most delicate and praised lamb in France. These lambs benefit from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and the Label Rouge (Red Label) quality marks which means that the "Sisteron Lamb" appellation can only be granted to lambs from Mérinos d'Arles, Mourérous and South Pre-Alp ewes nursed by their mothers for at least two months in the region around Sisteron.
Sisteron being less than 10 miles away from La Bonne Etape, you can be assured that the local lamb will be an important part of the menu. Simply roasted on a very hot oven, the meat is developing all its wonderful flavors while keeping its fine and tender qualities. A definite must try for a real Provençal experience!
Sisteron being less than 10 miles away from La Bonne Etape, you can be assured that the local lamb will be an important part of the menu. Simply roasted on a very hot oven, the meat is developing all its wonderful flavors while keeping its fine and tender qualities. A definite must try for a real Provençal experience!
Carré et épaule d'agneau rôtis (Roasted shoulder and rack of lamb) - €42 each
Carré d'agneau rôti (Lamb chops rack), prepared at the table
Epaule d'agneau rôti a four d'enfer (Roasted shoulder lamb)
Carré d'agneau rôti (Lamb chops rack)
Carré d'agneau rôti (Lamb chops rack)
The dessert menu is also a source of great pride for the restaurant, a way to honor Pierre, the father, who is a great confectioner. The signature dessert Crème glacée au Miel de Lavande dans sa Ruche d'Abeilles (Lavender Honey Ice Cream in its own Beehive in a Lavender Syrup) is simply stunning: a visual masterpiece filled with a rich lavender honey flavor ... so typical of the Provence region.
Each dessert we have tried was refined with a strong accent on fruits from the garden, and home-made sorbets and ice cream. A very well appreciated note after a delicious lamb.
If you have some space left before the dessert, we strongly recommend Le chariot de fromages (The cheese cart) - €17
Crème glacée au Miel de Lavande dans sa Ruche d'Abeilles (Lavender Honey Ice Cream in its own Beehive in a Lavender Syrup), the signature dessert of La Bonne Etape - €18
Le chocolat Cluizel dans tous ses états (Cluizel chocolate trio) - €19
Millefeuille aux pommes et son sorbet (Apple mille-feuille and its sorbet) - €18
Palette de glaces maison (house-made ice cream assortment) - €17
Delicate mignardises to pair with our coffee.
Coffee, pre-dessert and mignardises.
Because of its small size, La Bonne Etape is considered a boutique hotel. 18 rooms and junior suites are all decorated in a different Provençal style, while offering luxury and modern amenities. Rooms also have a direct access to the charming garden and its pool. Thanks to its secluded nature, La Bonne Etape is a great romantic gateway. Room rates were between €190 for a classic room to €250 for a Junior Suite*. (Read my article about the hotel)
*Prices checked in May 2013 during the low season.
The beautiful thing about this place is that it is located off the beaten tourist path, but still in the heart of authentic Provence. There are lots of unique sceneries and perched villages with amazing history worth checking out. The medieval village of Les Mées, located at the foot of an impressive narrow rock that raises up to more than 100 meters, is just a short distance away (14 miles / 22 km), and Manosque, another typical Provencal village is also only 25 miles (40 km) away. It is fair to say that the hotel provides a perfect base to explore the area.
If you decide to continue on your journey and follow Route Napoléon (known as the N85), the 96 miles (154 km) will take you directly to Cannes in 2 to 4 hours, depending on how many stops you decide to make.
“If Napoleon had stopped in La Bonne Etape, he would have stayed there and would have avoided Waterloo.” Francois Perier (French actor)
The garden is serene place to enjoy a coffee or your breakfast if you are staying at the hotel.
The casual 'Au Gout du Jour' restaurant is also available on the premises, and serves a bistro-style cuisine featuring traditional recipes from Chef Jany Gleize's grandmother Gabriel. The menu changes daily.
For more information
La Bonne Etape****
Hotel - Restaurant
Chemin du Lac
04160 Château-Arnoux
France
Tel: +011 33 4 92 64 00 09
Open every day except Monday & Tuesday during the low season. The restaurant closed annually from Jan. 2nd to Feb. 10th, and from Nov. 15th to Dec. 1rst.
For more information: Website and emailHotel - Restaurant
Chemin du Lac
04160 Château-Arnoux
France
Tel: +011 33 4 92 64 00 09
Open every day except Monday & Tuesday during the low season. The restaurant closed annually from Jan. 2nd to Feb. 10th, and from Nov. 15th to Dec. 1rst.
Our review: As we mentioned earlier in this article, we had the chance to stop twice at La Bonne Etape. Each time, we were impressed by the quality of the meal, the warm and professional service, as well as the attention to details. Every dish came beautifully presented with herbs and flowers from the chef's garden. The lamb is definitely a must to try as well as the signature dessert, the lavender honey ice cream in its own Beehive.
Price: Our bill for 3 persons was around €280 (excluding wine) for a 3 courses and coffee meal. The wine list being quite impressive, it can definitely boosts the total amount you will end-up paying. The restaurant also offers 3 menus: A 7-course degustation menu at €110 - (Menu Jarlandin), a 5-course "Provencal flavor" menu at €88 - (Menu Mer et Garrigue), and a 3-course menu at €73 - (Menu Mer ou Garrigue).
Note: If you are interested in learning how to cook like a chef, cooking and pastry lessons are organized in Fall and Spring. Please consult their website for more information
Interactive map
Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.
