Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Les Georges de Pennafort - A generous table only a stone's throw away from the Gulf of Saint Tropez

Menu cover designed by Ronald Searle

Right outside the beautiful village of Callas, in a red canyon called "Les Georges de Pennafort" well known for its hiking trails, is where you would least expect to find a gourmet restaurant shining a Michelin star. Well, you would be delighted to know that hidden at the foot of this Petit Colorado, such culinary institution does exist within the walls of a blue-shuttered Provençal bastide. Framed by a jewel-case of greenness, and with no habitation within a mile, L'hostellerie Les Georges de Pennafort is quiet heaven for gourmets with a good fork, and a breath of fresh air from the intense nearby St Tropez.

The restaurant has been here for a very long time and was really known only among locals. I used to go there as a kid with my grandparents to celebrate big events. I have many good memories associated with this place. At that time, the food was not gastronomical by any means, but it was the "Bon vivant" type of food that marks your imagination as a child.

Eventually, the owners retired. The restaurant and its small 16 rooms hotel which never really established a name in the culinary world, seemed to be predestinated to a dark future ... until 1995, when the talented Philippe Da Silva (who was then Executive chef at Le Chiberta, a 2 Michelin stars restaurant in Paris) and his wife Martine, felt in love with the 19th century bastide. They decided to buy it and within the first year of operation, the restaurant won a Michelin star it never lost. After some important remodels that added a well deserved touch of modernism, they succeed in placing Les Georges de Pennafort on the map. Today, people come from far, by car or helicopter (Yes, there’s a helipad.), to have a taste of Da Silva cuisine incognito.

Restaurant Les Georges de Pennafort - Main dinning room
The main dinning room elegantly appointed

Flower arrangement done by the chef himself
Flower arrangements made by Philippe Da Silva himself. Every week, he goes to the main wholesale flower market in Nice (M.I.N. Fleurs) to buy all the flowers for the restaurant

Menu cover designed by Ronald Searle
The cover of the menu was designed by Ronald Searle, a british artist and satirical cartoonist who recently passed away (Dec. 2011)
The patio - the perfect place for a summer lunch or dinner
The patio is the perfect place for a summer lunch or dinner

You cannot be on a diet when you come eat at Les Georges de Pennafort. Like a feast from another century, everything here comes in abundance and it is not unusual for people to still be lunching at 4pm. When you order two dishes, you generally receive two extra ones. The only reason behind that generosity is that the chef wants you to taste everything he has created in his Provencal kitchen. In an era where everybody tend to watch and stress about what they eat, a little bit of decadence is quite refreshing...

Chef Da Silva is very careful about the product he serves. He prefers to use noble products such as lobsters from Brittany, veal from Corrèze, vegetables and herbs from small local farmers when not from his own garden. Every morning, he will drive an hour to go to the farmer market in Nice (Cours Saleya in the old city), and source himself the best.

The wine list is also impressive and offers a good choice of award-winning Var vintages, including Château Saint Julien. The cellar evaluated at 800 000€*, comprises a collection of Pétrus starting at 1 600€ for the 1997 vintage, and of Château Cheval Blanc (Saint-Émilion).
*Published in a 2010 article.

Garrus rosé, from the nearby winery Le Chateau d'Esclans
Garrus rosé, the most expensive rosé in the world from the nearby winery Le Chateau d'Esclans - 130€

Restaurant Les Georges de Pennafort
Some little delicacies are helping us reading through the menu

Pain à l'huile d'olive (Olive oil bread)
Mini baguette à l'huile d'olive, romarin et Fleur de Sel (Olive oil, rosemary and Fleur de sel mini baguette)

Mise en bouche: Gaspacho à la tomate et au homard. (Tomato and Lobster Gazpacho)

Mise en bouche: Gaspacho à la tomate et au homard (Tomato and Lobster Gazpacho)

During my last visit in August 2012, we ordered the 80€ menu which normally comprises 7 courses. Off course, we did receive more, which was a pleasure for me as a foodie and photographer. I can definitely tell that cooking is a real passion for chef Da Silva, and he loves to share it.

Needless to say, Les Georges de Pennafort is a real Maison Bourgeois, a house where you are treated like royalties but in a very welcoming and unpretentious way. Although Da Silva have been trained by the biggest name in the industry: Claude Girard (Les Santons de Grimaud), Louis Outhier (L'oasis - La Napoule
), Roger Vergé (Le Moulin de Mougins), Charles Barrier (Tours), and even completed his training in pâtisserie and chocolaterie at Lenôtre, you always feel like you are invited at a friend sumptuous dinner party.

This is certainly the intention Da Silva had when he envisioned his restaurant. Born in the nearby village of Cogolin, his childhood has deeply marked the type of chef he would become:

“... I’ve always loved the southern cuisine de grand-mère, like potato salad with olive oil, or vegetable pistou soup ... When I was a kid, the entire village used to go to the baker’s to cook their Sunday chicken or pork in the wood oven. Meals were always festive.
Today, what is most important to me is to use the very best local products. We don’t try for sophistication here—it’s all about flavor.”

Every dish reflected Chef Da Silva philosophy: bringing the best to the table. Foie gras, truffles from Périgord or d’Aups (around 400 kilos per year!), wild mushrooms and fishes... The type of cuisine is Neo-Classic as the chef likes to add his personal touch to the traditional cuisine of the Var region. My all time favorite dish has to be the Foie gras and parmegiano raviolis. California is banning the use and commerce of Foie Gras starting July 1rst 2012, so I can't wait to be back there for another round.

Salade de homard, truffe d'été et tomates confites (Lobster salad with summer truffle and tomato confits)
Salade de homard, truffe d'été et tomates confites (Lobster salad with summer truffle and tomato confits) - 67€

Pressé de poulet à la truffe. (Chicken pressé  with truffle)
Compressé de volaille et foie gras. (Poultry and foie gras compressé) - item not in the menu (inspiration from the chef)

Raviolis de foie gras et parmesan (Foie gras and parmegiano raviolis)
Raviolis de foie gras et parmesan (Foie gras and parmegiano raviolis) - 39€

Philippe Da Silva, Chef owner of Les Georges de Pennafort
Les raviolis de foie gras et parmesan is one of the restaurant speciality. You must try it!

Saint Pierre, fondue aux poireaux et truffe d'été (John Dory served with a leek and summer truffle fondue)
Saint Pierre, fondue aux poireaux et truffe d'été (John Dory served with a leek and summer truffle fondue) - 45€

Turbot braisé au champagne et girolles (Braised turbot with a champagne and girolles sauce)
Turbot braisé au champagne et girolles (Braised turbot with a champagne and girolles sauce) - 54€

Bar poêlé aux cèpes, sauce au porto (Pan-seared seabass with a Porto and porcini sauce)
Bar poêlé aux cèpes, sauce au porto (Pan-seared seabass with a Porto and porcini sauce) - 54€

Langoustines poêlées aux cèpes (Pan-seared langoustines with porcinis)
Langoustines poêlées aux cèpes (Pan-seared langoustines with porcinis) - 54€

Trou normand: Granité au citron vert (Lime granite)
Trou normand: Granité au citron vert (Lime granite)

Côte de veau aux légumes printaniers (Veal chop with vegetable printaniers)
Côte de veau aux légumes printaniers (Veal chop with vegetable printaniers) - 45€

Pigeonneau rôti aux épices (Spices roasted pigeon)
Pigeonneau rôti aux épices (Spices roasted pigeon) - 50€

Le plateau de fromages (Cheese cart) -  Les Georges de Pennafort
Le plateau de fromages frais et affinés (Cheese cart) - 15€

Artisan bread rolls
Artisan bread rolls freshly baked in the kitchen

Chateau de LaMarque, Haut Medoc 2005
Chateau de LaMarque, Haut Medoc 2005", the perfect companion to fine cheeses - 13€ a glass


The desserts are also quite unforgettable. During the hot months of summer, Chef Da Silva and his chef pâtissier propose an assortment of desserts mainly based on ice cream and sorbets. What a better way to end a sumptuous lunch.

To my opinion, when you look at the definition of "Joie de Vivre" in the dictionary, you should read Hostellerie Les Georges de Pennafort.

Pré dessert: Gelée aux prunes, émulsion miel et glace cannelle (Prune jelly with a honey emulsion and cinnamon ice cream)
Pré dessert: Gelée aux prunes, émulsion miel et glace cannelle (Prune jelly with a honey emulsion and cinnamon ice cream)

Les desserts - Les Georges de Pennafort
Les desserts

Baguette meringuée au deux citrons (Meringue baguette - lemons two ways)
Baguette meringuée au deux citrons (Meringue baguette - lemons two ways) - 15.50€

Baguette meringuée au deux citrons (Meringue baguette - lemons two ways)
Baguette meringuée au deux citrons (Meringue baguette - lemons two ways) - 15.50€

Les Georges de Pennafort - Dessert: Dôme glacé à la pêche et amande
Dessert: Dôme glacé à la pêche et amande - 15.50€

Mignardises
Mignardises

Mignardises
Mignardises

Espresso
Espresso

Hostellerie Les Georges de Pennafort (Provence)


For more information

Hostellerie Les Georges de Pennafort
83830 Callas
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 76 66 51
Fax: +33 (0)4 94 76 67 23
Closed annually: Mid January to Mid March
Website and email

Restaurant: Open for Lunch and Dinner except for lunch on Monday and Wesdnay. Menus: 65€, 80€ and 145€, Lunch Menu (Tuesday - Friday) 49€, and a la carte.

Hotel: 16 rooms and suites are available with all inclusive packages. The cheery, comfortable rooms, some with outdoor terraces, are decked out in a pretty Provençal decor, with flowered bedspreads in traditional boutis quilting, and gleaming marble bathrooms. The latest addition is the small spa, with a fitness room, a Moroccan-style hammam steam bath and a wide range of treatments, from purifying anti-age facials with Thalgo beauty products to a body scrub with sea salt, sugar and Mediterranean fruit. There’s also a newly revamped outdoor swimming pool with a wooden deck looking onto the gorge, and a perfect pond replete with ducks and swans.

Interactive map
Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.