If you are spending the holidays on the French Riviera and are looking for an authentic and gourmet experience, you need to know where the locals do their shopping. In Cannes, most of the activity is centered around Rue Meynadier (Meynadier street), two streets behind the harbor, and a couple of blocks away from the Palais des Festival, where the famous Cannes Film Festival is taking place each May. Don't be fooled by your first impression of the busy Rue Meynadier, under its modest appearance you will a precious gem only known by the local gourmets.
Many well-known gourmet institutions have been located on rue Meynadier for several generations. While Fauchon, La Maison du Chocolat and Lenôtre are all concentrated around the luxurious rue d'Antibes, traditional food artisans have elected for a more low profile address. Our first stop is at Ernest Traiteur (Ernest Catering). Ernest has been founded in 1936 by the grandparents of the actual owner, Michel Ernest. It was originally called the Lyons Charcuterie. They made traditional deli meats, including all the varieties of that time, plus many regional specialties of Lyon.
After WWII, the parents, Elda and Paul Ernest, developed the business around ready-to-eat dishes, salads, and local specialties; opened another shop; and organized their first receptions, such as those of Eddie Barclay, a famous French music producer. Since 1980, the company has strongly developed its reception planning and catering activities, and is always part of the most exclusive events that are happening in and around Cannes. Today, they are internationally known, and often cited as a benchmark in the catering industry.
Each year, Ernest publishes its holiday menu were classics as well as innovations are part of the feast. If you don't want to cook a single dish during your holidays, Ernest has everything you will need from mise en bouche to mignardises, without forgetting the Champagne. The menu is a bit pricey, but perfection has no price.
The Ernest sign can surely be seen from far, on the narrow pedestrian Meynadier street.
The petits fours salés (salé meaning "salted" or "savoury"), are bite-sized salted appetizers usually served as part of cocktail parties or buffets. It is traditional in France to enjoy them with a glass of Champagne before starting the meal. The petits fours salés comes in 3 formats: 25 pieces (17€), 40 pieces (31,50€), 70 pieces (51€). Count 4 to 5 pieces per guest when served as appetizer before your meal.
Mini Croque Monsieur (Ham and cheese sandwich traditionally toasted like a panini).
Foie gras is another traditional food served during the Christmas holiday. It can be served during the meal with a glass of Sauterne, or enjoyed as appetizer with a glass of Champagne. Ernest prepares a fabulous truffled goose foie gras that is sold in terrines of 150g (58€) to 900g (285€), or by the weight at 288€ per kg.
The fabulous Champagne Laurent Perrier Rosé is the perfect companion for this gourmet appetizer time, here presented in magnum ($180) and 750cl ($90) formats - Rated 90 by Wine Spectator.
No traditional french meal can really happen without cheese. French people have a real adoration for cheese which usually starts at a young age. Over the years, they developed a sensitive palate that allows them to enjoy some cheeses that would put off many non initiés (ie: new cheese amateurs). The biggest cheese name on the French Riviera is Céneri, and is also located on rue Meynadier since 1968. Edouard Céneri, is the third generation of maître fromager, and supplies his precious cheese to all the gastronomical tables across the nation, including 75 Michelin rated restaurants not to mention Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon.
The maître fromager profession is rather unique. Mr Céneri will travel France and Europe to buy the best cheeses from the best artisan cheese makers, and then, will bring them to maturity with great care and patience in one of his 3 caves. Cheese is like wine. It needs time and a specific environment to develop into a masterpiece. It also need the know how of a real master who can comprehend all the subtleties in play.
With over 300 cheeses available in the boutique, you can be assured to find some specimens that would suit your taste. Céneri also ships to Europe and Asia but not in North America. Canada and the US that have strictest regulations regarding the import of raw milk products that would make it impossible.
After WWII, the parents, Elda and Paul Ernest, developed the business around ready-to-eat dishes, salads, and local specialties; opened another shop; and organized their first receptions, such as those of Eddie Barclay, a famous French music producer. Since 1980, the company has strongly developed its reception planning and catering activities, and is always part of the most exclusive events that are happening in and around Cannes. Today, they are internationally known, and often cited as a benchmark in the catering industry.
Each year, Ernest publishes its holiday menu were classics as well as innovations are part of the feast. If you don't want to cook a single dish during your holidays, Ernest has everything you will need from mise en bouche to mignardises, without forgetting the Champagne. The menu is a bit pricey, but perfection has no price.
The Ernest sign can surely be seen from far, on the narrow pedestrian Meynadier street.
The petits fours salés (salé meaning "salted" or "savoury"), are bite-sized salted appetizers usually served as part of cocktail parties or buffets. It is traditional in France to enjoy them with a glass of Champagne before starting the meal. The petits fours salés comes in 3 formats: 25 pieces (17€), 40 pieces (31,50€), 70 pieces (51€). Count 4 to 5 pieces per guest when served as appetizer before your meal.
Mini Croque Monsieur (Ham and cheese sandwich traditionally toasted like a panini).
Foie gras is another traditional food served during the Christmas holiday. It can be served during the meal with a glass of Sauterne, or enjoyed as appetizer with a glass of Champagne. Ernest prepares a fabulous truffled goose foie gras that is sold in terrines of 150g (58€) to 900g (285€), or by the weight at 288€ per kg.
The fabulous Champagne Laurent Perrier Rosé is the perfect companion for this gourmet appetizer time, here presented in magnum ($180) and 750cl ($90) formats - Rated 90 by Wine Spectator.
No traditional french meal can really happen without cheese. French people have a real adoration for cheese which usually starts at a young age. Over the years, they developed a sensitive palate that allows them to enjoy some cheeses that would put off many non initiés (ie: new cheese amateurs). The biggest cheese name on the French Riviera is Céneri, and is also located on rue Meynadier since 1968. Edouard Céneri, is the third generation of maître fromager, and supplies his precious cheese to all the gastronomical tables across the nation, including 75 Michelin rated restaurants not to mention Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon.
The maître fromager profession is rather unique. Mr Céneri will travel France and Europe to buy the best cheeses from the best artisan cheese makers, and then, will bring them to maturity with great care and patience in one of his 3 caves. Cheese is like wine. It needs time and a specific environment to develop into a masterpiece. It also need the know how of a real master who can comprehend all the subtleties in play.
With over 300 cheeses available in the boutique, you can be assured to find some specimens that would suit your taste. Céneri also ships to Europe and Asia but not in North America. Canada and the US that have strictest regulations regarding the import of raw milk products that would make it impossible.
Bread is very important component to any serious cheese platter. Paul is a well known bakery chain that offers a good selection of bread, and has a boutique on rue Meynadier not far from Céneri.
A large selection of goat cheeses is available at Céneri. There are 14 types of goat cheese in France that carry a special AOC label (AOC stands for "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" and is the French designation for name-control status on a cheese. Makers entitled to use the AOC designation on their cheese must be in compliance with legal stipulations regarding how and where the cheese is made.).
Emmental Francais (French Emmental) from the region of Savoy. (Emmental is typically produced in Switzerland, but many French regions along the border also produce some exceptional Emmental cheese).
Beaufort, another cow milk cheese from the Savoy region.
A nice cheese platter like the one presented here will comprise of around 10 different cheeses, and will cost around 100€.
Finding a great pairing wine is equally important for the overall experience. Suggested here: Chateau Lascombes 1996 - Margaux ($80) rated 88 by Wine Spectator in 2007.
The traditional French dessert consumed during the Christmas holiday is the Bûche de Noël or Yule log. As the name indicates, the cake is generally prepared, presented, and garnished so as to look like a log ready for the fire. According to Larousse Gastronomique the yule log cake tradition started in the 1870s when Parisian pastry chefs decided to replace the less elaborate brioche style fruit loaf with this more festive confection. The traditional bûche is made from a Génoise or other sponge cake, generally baked in a large, shallow Swiss roll pan, frosted, rolled to form a cylinder, and frosted again on the outside.
Mignardises and others petits fours are also an elegant way to end the festive meal. The bite-sized pastries are usually served with coffee, and can take many different forms. The most well known is probably the French macaron thanks to the talent of pastry chefs such as Pierre Hermé, Ladurée, not to mention Fauchon and Dalloyau. Other famous petits fours sec ("dry" petits fours) are almond tuiles, palmiers, sablés and cigarettes.
Mignardises and others petits fours are also an elegant way to end the festive meal. The bite-sized pastries are usually served with coffee, and can take many different forms. The most well known is probably the French macaron thanks to the talent of pastry chefs such as Pierre Hermé, Ladurée, not to mention Fauchon and Dalloyau. Other famous petits fours sec ("dry" petits fours) are almond tuiles, palmiers, sablés and cigarettes.
Ernest has recently open a pastry boutique 100% dedicated to sweet delices: pastries, ice cream, chocolates, candies, and breadstuffs, always on rue Meynadier. Presented on the top left is a Vacherin Grand Marnier - 8 servings (50€). Vacherin is a frozen dessert made of meringue, whipped cream, fruits and other flavors (Chocolate, strawberry, chestnuts, hazelnuts).
Bûche de Noël presented here in individual portion (bûchette individuelle), and available at Ernest in Chocolate, chestnut, strawberry and Coffee flavor - 5,50€
Box of French macarons Ernest - 18 pieces for 20,00€. Also available in plate of 24 pieces (34,00€), and tray of 48 pieces (63,00€).
Box of petits fours Ernest - 250g (16,00€), includes almond tuiles, palmiers, sablés, and cigarettes.
It is impossible to conclude this gourmet article without talking about fine chocolates. Even if the biggest chocolate consumer in Europe is Switzerland with 10kg (22 lbs) per person each year, France is not far behind with 6.7 kg (14.7 lbs). It will come as no surprise that almost half of the chocolate sale happens during the month of December, as chocolate is a common gift to give and receive. Of course, many types and quality of chocolate exist. If you are aiming for the best, you can surely bet on La Chocolaterie de Puyricard , that has been the premier chocolate confectioner in Provence since 1960. Leader on the artisanal and high end chocolate market, Puyricard is amongst the top 15 French companies in the field of luxury chocolates and sweets, and has been ranked number 1 by Gault & Millau's.
Even with a strong network of 14 boutiques including 11 in Provence and the French Riviera, the Chocolaterie de Puyricard remains a family business, strongly attached to its traditional methods as well as top ingredients. High end chocolates are very labor intensive. Each year, Puyricard spends 1,470,000 hours of work which is equivalent to 1h 27 minutes per kilogram of chocolate or 90 seconds per chocolate candy. Interestingly enough, it only takes 10 seconds to eat a chocolate candy and 1 minute for its taste to fade away. Artisanal know how has never tasted so delicious.
Even with a strong network of 14 boutiques including 11 in Provence and the French Riviera, the Chocolaterie de Puyricard remains a family business, strongly attached to its traditional methods as well as top ingredients. High end chocolates are very labor intensive. Each year, Puyricard spends 1,470,000 hours of work which is equivalent to 1h 27 minutes per kilogram of chocolate or 90 seconds per chocolate candy. Interestingly enough, it only takes 10 seconds to eat a chocolate candy and 1 minute for its taste to fade away. Artisanal know how has never tasted so delicious.
The Puyricard boutique in Cannes on Rue des Belges, right behind the Palais des Festivals.
It is difficult to resist the vast selection (100 to be more precise) of Puyricard chocolates. There is choice for every tastes: truffles, liquors, bouchées, milk moulded, bitter moulded, dark coated, and american moulded.
Ballotins de chocolats assortis 250g (Mixed chocolate boxes) - 22,50 € or 90€ per kg
For more information
Ernest Traiteur
(The Catering Boutique)
52 rue Meynadier
06400 Cannes
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 06 23 00
The Pastry Shop
53 bis rue Meynadier
06400 Cannes
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 06 23 03
Website
Céneri Maitre Fromager Affineur
22 rue Meynadier
06400 Cannes
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 39 63 68
Website (French only)
Chocolaterie de Puyricard
The Cannes boutique recently closed. The closest stores would in Nice or Toulon. Please consult the company's Website for more information and addresses. You can also read the article I wrote about the Chocolaterie de Puyricard .
Paul
8 rue Meynadier
06400 Cannes
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 38 15 59
Website (French only)
Interactive map
Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.
