Paradisiacal beaches of Southeast Oahu, Hawaii

Driving outside Honolulu is the best way to experience some truly paradisiacal beaches as well an authentic Hawaiian vibe. Although it is certain that most of Oahu' action and fun can be found around Waikiki Beach, if you dare to venture along Oahu Island, you will be in for quite a journey. Gorgeous, pristine (and yes almost empty!) beaches exist, and only locals seem to know about them. So pack up your sunscreen lotion and follow us in our day-trip to gorgeous Southeast Oahu!

To get a pretty good idea of what this day-trip has in store for you, we recommend to first stop at the Diamond Head State Monument, Hawaii's most famous landmark. Right at the skirt of Honolulu, this broad, saucer-shaped crater was formed about 300,000 years ago during a single, explosive eruption that sent ash and fine particles in the air. From the top of the 760-foot (232 m) extinct volcano, first time visitors will get the best bird's eye view of the island as well as a postcard view of Oahu's shoreline.

The trail to the summit was built in 1908 as part of Oahu's coastal defense system. The 1.6 miles (2.6 km) takes between 1 hour and 2 depending on your speed and the traffic. The Diamond Head Summit Trail starts rather gently at the base of the crater but does become steep and strenuous as you reach the summit. (The last 1/10 of a mile is all steep stairs). But you can rest assure that every drop of sweat will be well worth the effort when you'll finally reach the top.

As the observation station is limited in size, it is not uncommon to wait up to 30 minutes before being able to reach the final portion of the hike. To maximize your experience, we would recommend to come as early as possible (8 a.m. in summertime) to beat the heat and the crowds. Your hiking gear should include some decent hiking shoes, bottled water and of course, your camera.

Vista overlooking Maunalua Bay and Koko Head. On a clear day, from that view point you can see a glimpse of the islands of Maui and Moloka'i.


Most of the vegetation and birds were introduced in the late 1800s to early 1900s.


Golden meadows (Pennisetum) dancing on the top of Diamond Head.


From the observation station, you will get the most incredible vista of Honolulu.


Diamond Head viewed from the air.

After an early energizing hike, it is time to enjoy some more relaxing beach activities. As we follow road 72, we drive along Maunalua Bay to reach Koko Head, another impressive crater. At its base rests a pristine jewel named Hanauma Bay which translates into "Curved Bay". Hanauma as locals call it, is Oahu's most famous snorkeling destination. The bay's shallow shoreline water and abundant marine life draw snorkelers of all ages. The deeper water outside the bay is also great for scuba diving.

The small and horseshoe-shape white-sand beach is a marine conservation district, which means that fishing, damaging or feeding marine life is prohibited. Before getting access to the beach, first time visitors are required to go through the Education Center and view a nine minute orientation film that provides a cultural history of the area and exhibits about the importance of protecting its marine life. If you do not have your masks, fins, and snorkels, no worry. Snorkeling equipments and lockers are available to rent on the beach.

Whether for the day or just a couple of hours, a stop at Hanauma Bay will give you the feel of what real tropical reefs are all about.

Even from the overlook, you can easily see the reefs through the clear aqua waters.


This virgin beach is a great spot for sunbathing and picnics.


A colorful mosaic is welcoming visitors at the park's Education Center.


Koko Head and Hanauma Bay viewed from the air.

Past Koko Head Regional Park, we are now heading toward another interesting view point called Makapu'u Point. This spot has a breathtaking view of the ocean, mountains, and Manana Island (Rabbit Island), a picturesque cay said to resemble a swimming bunny with ears pulled back. Past that point, we are entering the Windward region of Oahu. The Windward side lives up to its name with ideal spots for windsurfing and kiteboarding. For most part, the waves are mellow and the bottoms are all sand, creating nice spots to visit with younger kids.

Surprisingly, the beaches along Waimanalo Bay were as beautiful as they were empty. In fact, these beaches are only visited by locals as few tourists rent cars to visit the Island. The lucky visitors we were, enjoyed a wide stretch of silky white sand combined with turquoise and jade water in an tropical green setting.

Alone in Paradise, it does not get better than that...

Postcard vista of Waimanalo Bay from Makapu'u Point.


Pristine and empty beaches along Waimanalo Bay.


Waimanalo Beach Park.


Mokapu Peninsula, a Marine Corps Air Station can be seen from Waimanalo Beach Park.

At the end of Waimanalo Bay, we are reaching Kailua, a small residential community of 36,500 inhabitants. Many of the people that work in Honolulu live in Kailua, and transit everyday through the scenic Highway 3 that literally cuts across the mountains to reach the capital. As you would guess, the restaurant selection here is not as wide as in Honolulu. However, we did discover a true gem worth visiting: Formaggio Grill, a sophisticated bistro-wine bar serving Italian-influenced French Med fare.

The restaurant caters non-stop lunches, happy hours and dinners to locals and occasional visitors. As we arrived past to 2 p.m., hungry and quite exhausted, we ordered many items from the menu. To our great surprise, everything was really good, the service was friendly, and all that for a reasonable price.

Who said you had to starve in paradise?

Formaggio Grill - Restaurant front on Hahani Street, Kailua.


Bruschetta Trio: Tomato and basil, portabella mushroom with truffle oil, roasted peppers and goat cheese - $12.99.


Tuna and artichoke tartins - Ahii Salad served open faced on grilled crostini - $12.49.


Chopped Greek Salad: cucumber, tri-colored peppers, sweet red onions, vine-ripened tomatoes, kalamata olives, oregano and feta cheese - $8.99.


Fresh fish tacos: Seared Island fish with pesto aioli - $12.99.


Chocolate molten cake a la mode - $10.

In our next article, we are ending our day-trip with the visit of the Byodo-in Temple in the Valley of the Temples. Stay tuned!

For more information

Formaggio Grill

Open Monday to Thursday: 11:30 am - 11:00 pm, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 am - 1:00 am., Sunday: 11:00 am - 11:00 pm
Award-winning restaurant in Kailua serving casual gourmet fare and offering an extensive wine list featuring more than 50 wines by the glass to celebrate happy hours in style. At "Happy Hour" time, a large selection of tapas and wine by the glass turns this quiet restaurant into Kailua hotspot. Live music every Friday and Saturday.
Our review: We truly enjoyed our lunch at Formaggio Grill. Everything was really fresh and tasty, and we need to mention that "The Tuna and Artichoke tartine" was divine. Our total bill for 4 dishes, 1 dessert and 2 glasses of wines was $100 (including taxes and gratuity), a real bargain for quality food in Oahu.
305 Hahani Street
Kailua, HI 96734
USA
Tel: (808) 263 2633
Website

Diamond Head State Monument
open daily from 6:00a.m. until 6:00p.m. The current fees is $5.00 per car or $1 per person for pedestrians.
Hawaii's most recognized landmark is known for its historic hiking trail, stunning coastal views, and military history. Diamond Head State Monument encompasses over 475 acres, including the interior and outer slopes of the crater. It takes about an hour to reach the observation deck and it is greatly advised to start very early in the morning to avoid the crowd and beat the heat.
For more information, please visit the Park's Website or consult the Park Brochure.


Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
open daily from 6:00a.m. until 7:00p.m. except on Tuesdays. The current fees at Hanauma Bay are $1.00 per car to park and $7.50 per person to enter.
Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, one of the most spectacular natural resources in Hawaii, is not a "beach park" for beach sport, but a Nature Preserve dedicated to safeguarding the fragile marine life in the Bay. You can rent masks, fins, snorkels and lockers at the beach. Try to arrive early as between 10a.m. and 1p.m. the parking lot gets full as the number of vehicles allowed in the park is limited.
For more information, please visit the park's Website.

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Hawaii to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.

One day in Honolulu - Part 3: Sunset on Waikiki Beach

Following our venture into Honolulu's Chinatown Historic District, we headed to the famous Waikiki Beach to enjoy the sunset and a waterfront fine dining experience. First, we had to stop at our hotel for a well deserved shower and fresher clothes. We could have taken a rest at House Without a Key by getting some cocktails while enjoying the Hawaiian live band. But instead, we decided to walk down Honolulu's main street and shopping Mecca, Kalakaua Ave, down toward Waikiki Beach.

Kalakaua Avenue, named after King David Kalakaua, is the main road stretching for 1 mile (1.6km) through Waikiki. It runs parallel to Waikiki Beach and features many shops, restaurants and bars. It is fair to say that this is where the action is taking place. Shops along Kalakaua Avenue range from beachwear and surf shops to upscale boutiques such as Dior, Hermes and Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton boutique on Kalakaua Avenue.


Dior boutique on Kalakaua Avenue.


Hermes window displaying some original guitars on Kalakaua Avenue.


Entrance of the Cartier Boutique on Kalakaua Avenue.

A short walk down Kalakaua Avenue and we finally reached Waikiki Beach. No beach anywhere is so widely known or so universally sough after as this narrow, 1.5 mile long (2.4 km) crescent of imported sand (to counter erosion and rising sea levels) at the foot of a string of high-rise hotels. Home to the world's longest-running beach party, Waikiki attracts nearly five million visitors a year from every corner of the planet. First-timers are always amazed to discover how small Waikiki Beach actually is, but everyone finds a place for themselves under the tropical sun here.

Waikiki Beach is also paradise to any surfer wannabe. Indeed, the turquoise and calm waters of Waikiki provide the perfect condition for getting a surfing lesson. Legendary Hawaiian waterman Duke Kahanamoku, grew up surfing the waves of Waikiki. This Olympic gold medalist in swimming actually taught visitors how to surf at the turn of the century and was later known as “The father of modern surfing.” Today, the Waikiki Beach Boys perpetuate Duke’s legacy by teaching visitors how to surf and canoe and the Duke Kahanamoku Statue has become an iconic symbol of Waikiki.

One of Waikiki's new and signature attractions is the tradition of torch-lighting ceremonies that occurs most evenings throughout Waikiki. Locals and visitors are all getting together on the lawn at Waikiki Beach Walk (Near Duke Kahanomoku’s statue and the large Banyan tree) to relax and enjoy the nightly hula pageant which begins with a torch-lighting ceremony and the call of a conch shell. The hour-long show starts just before sunset* and features the young men of the "Men of Hoêa" in a torch lighting ceremony, followed by the award-winning hula halau schools dedicated to hula and Hawaiian culture from throughout Oahu.
* Nightly except Mondays, weather-permitting. 6:30-7:30 PM (6:00-7:00 PM in Nov, Dec, Jan) at the Kuhio Beach Hula Mound

Traditional Polynesian boat.


One of the many Duke Kahanamoku tributes.


Young hula dancers before the nightly hula pageant show.


Waikiki Beach.

At the end of Waikiki Beach on the sand of Sans Souci Beach (trouble free in French), we ended our journey with an elegant waterfront dining at Michel's at the Colony Surf. The restaurant rolls up right on the beach, and offers a breathtaking ocean view as well as the best vista of Honolulu skyline. Many dine early to catch the gorgeous sunset from the terrace, but the fabulous after-dark lights of Waikiki is equally enjoyable.

Dinner here is a sort of sunset beach picnic with linen, china and chandeliers. This is arguably the most romantic spot in Waikiki for a sunset dinner for two. Michel's is synonymous with fine dining in the minds of Oahuans who have been coming here for more than 40 years. Over the years, Chef Hardy Kintscher has developed a très, très French menu with both classic choices (escargot, sauteed foie gras) and contemporary items - or a Hawaiian twist on a French classic such as the Hawaiian Bouillabaisse. We decided on taking the "Chef Hardy's Taste of Michel's", a 6 courses tasting menu.

An elegant French cuisine paired with a good bottle of wine and feet almost on the sand... Is there a better way to finish a day?

From the restaurant's terrace, you can enjoy an amazing view of Honolulu skyline.


Duckhorn Merlot 2006 (375ml) - $75.


1st course - Fresh iced oysters served with fresh lemon, cocktail sauce and shallot vinaigrette.


1rst course - Terrine of Hudson Valley foie gras with Guava port wine gelée and toasted raisin bread.


2nd course - Napoleon of seared Alaskan diver scallop layered with oven-roasted plum tomatoes and grilled zucchini; citrus vinaigrette.


3rd course - Belgian endive salad with Cambazola bleu cheese, watercress, dried cranberry and crisp prosciutto; Jerez vinaigrette.


4th course - Grilled Onaga served over sautéed spinach & pilaf rice, diced tomato & mango in a browned butter sauce.


5th course - Beef bourgogne (Boeuf Bourguignon) served with Parisian vegetable, rustic rice and red wine demi glace.


6th course - Molten chocolate cake served with apple banana gelato and fresh berries.

For more information

Michel's at the Colony Surf

Open everyday for dinner and for Sunday Brunch
(Sunday to Thursday: 5:30 pm - 9:30 pm, Friday & Saturday: 5:30 pm - 10 pm., Sunday Brunch: 10 am - 1pm)
Opened in 1962, Michel's remains one of Hawaii's longest-standing and finest restaurants, offering delectable dishes celebrating the rebirth of classical French cuisine.
Our review: We had a very enjoyable dinner at Michel's. The open terrace offers an incredible view on Waikiki Beach and Honolulu's skyline, and the live band playing soft jazz was a great addition to the experience. The service was very attentive and friendly. We decided to take the tasting menu, a 6 courses menu at $80. Every dish was tasty and well presented. Our final bill was $316 that included 2 tasting menu, half bottle of Merlot, espresso and water, taxes and gratuities. Taking into account the location, view, and live band, we can say that menu is more than reasonably priced. For a romantic evening, this is definitely one of the best spot in Honolulu. Try to book early enough to enjoy the sunset and request an ocean side table.
2895 Kalakaua Ave.
Honolulu, HI 96815
USA
Tel: (808) 923 6552
Website


Kalauka Avenue
Waikiki's main road is a two-mile-long oceanfront street, progressing from Ala Wai bridge to the impressive Diamond Head. As the namesake of Hawaii's lively final king, the street befittingly features legendary hotels, parks, and a host of deluxe shops, restaurants, and nightlife. Recently renovated by the city, the street at Waikiki Beach features new plantings, seating spots, and a waterfall that's a perfect site for a photo. If you don't want walk, a free Waikiki Trolley travels along Kalakaua Avenue.

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Hawaii to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.

One day in Honolulu - Part 2: Lunch in Chinatown

After a morning full of exploration, we are back in downtown Honolulu right in time for lunch. Honolulu is composed of many different interesting districts, so we decided to spend some time in the Chinatown Historic District, one of the oldest Chinatowns in the United States. Compared to larger cities like San Francisco, this Chinatown may seem on the smaller size. However, the 15-block district is really alive with a mix of Asian cultures, and has long been a popular gathering place for local residents and visitors.

Our first objective was to find a good place to eat. After some search, we decided to go to the Little Village Noodle House. A long-standing Hawaii institution, the Little Village concept was conceived way back in 1974 when owners Kenneth and Jennifer Chan first stepped foot on American soil. Arriving in Honolulu from China with only a suitcase and $100 to their name, the young married couple worked in the restaurant business and saved for nearly ten years in order to open a restaurant of their own.

Their work paid off in 1984 when they opened their 30 seat “hole in the wall” in the University district. Through the years, the Chan's have started many successful ventures, the most famous being the Little Village which opened its doors in April 2001. An instant hit for Downtown business people and Chinatown visitors, this latest effort has earned the Chan’s exceptional reviews in almost every major local publication.

Entrance of the Little Village Noodle House in the heart of the Chinatown Historic District


Lettuce wrap as presented to the table: Stir-fried minced chicken, chives, mushrooms, bean sprouts, & chestnuts. ($ 8.95/8 pcs.)


Lettuce wrap served on fresh crispy lettuce leaves.


Steamed Won Ton: Northern style won ton filled with pork and vegetables served with hot peanut sauce. ($ 7.75/10 pcs.)


Mu-Shu Roll: A very popular item. Stir-fried shredded pork or chicken with vegetables and spices, wrapped in a thin crepe. Served with hoisin sauce. (Vegetarian roll also available). ($ 8.95/4 rolls)


Mu-Shu Roll served on a thin crepe.


Hot & Sour Soup: Simmered pork, tofu, bamboo shoots, and shitake mushrooms in perfect harmony with spicy pepper and vinegar. ($8.50)

Chinatown's history can be traced back in the late 18th century when the first Chinese arrived in Hawaii, and became a community of family stores. Starting in 1852, many Chinese arrived as contract laborers for the growing sugar industry. By 1882, the Chinese population in Honolulu had reached 5,000 and constituted 49% of the total plantation work force. Many became merchants after their contracts expired, and moved to this area. At that time Chinatown was made up of dry-goods and produce merchants, tailors and dressmakers, barbers and herbalists.

In January 1900, almost the entire neighborhood was burned to the ground to halt the spread of bubonic plague, schools were closed and 7000 residents of the area were put under quarantine. Many of the buildings present in Chinatown today date from 1901. One of the most famous, the Oahu Market built in 1904 at the corner of King and Kekaulike streets, still remains in use for selling fresh fish and produce, and has become one of the symbol of the Historic District.

After World War II the area fell into disrepair and became a red-light district. In an effort to preserve its heritage, about 36 acres (15 ha) of the district was added to the National Register of Historic Places listings in Oahu in January 1973. The area has been a target for a major revitalization plan since 2006*.
“We recognize and appreciate Chinatown's historic, cultural, and economic importance. Chinatown's assets - its architecture, businesses, ethnic diversity, restaurants, and arts and culture - are the core of its uniqueness and must be preserved.” - The Mayor of the City and County of Honolulu, Mufi Hannemann

Chinatown today remains a bustling, crowded and noisy place whose primarily purpose is on buying and selling. The meat, fish and produce stalls remain, within a mix of gift stores, lei stands, and dozens of restaurants. If you are lucky to be here during the celebration of the Chinese New Year between January 20 and February 20, you will enjoy many outdoor festivities such as lion dancers, and cheerful bright-red lanterns and decor are displayed all around town.

Typical building of the Chinatown Historic District that was built post the great fire of 1900.

Kekaulike Mall: Example of a new development within the historic district.


Kekaulike Mall: A gathering place for Chinatown residents buying fresh vegetables, exotic herbs and tropical fruits, pig’s heads, chicken feet, live eel and fish.


The historic Ohau Market, founded in 1904.

Immigrants of China, Thailand, Laos, Japan, Philippines, Vietnam, and Hawai’i all live and work in Chinatown in a harmonious blend of cultures, traditions and lifestyles. A common thread across all these cultures is definitely Buddhism. Many Buddhist temples and shrines can be found all around Chinatown as well as around the Islands, a lot of them being devoted to Kuan Yin.

According to the legend, Kuan Yin is the goddess of Mercy, the one that chose to remain on earth doing good even after having achieved enlightenment. Women are her primary worshippers, but this goddess also comforts the troubled, the sick, the lost, the senile and the unfortunate, as well as protects seafarers, farmers and travelers - just the deity needed for an immigrant people building a new life far from home. There are many representations of her all over the Islands: holding a lotus flower (symbolizing beauty in the form of the flower which grows from the mud of human fragility), pouring out a pitcher of oil (symbolizing mercy flowing), or as a sort of Madonna with a child.

A couple of blocks away from Chinatown and near the entrance of Foster Botanical Garden is The Kuan Yin Temple, a bright-red Buddhist temple with a green ceramic-tile roof. Devotees burn paper 'money' for prosperity and good luck, and offerings of fresh flowers and fruit are placed at the altar. The Buddhist temple which has been on this site since 1880, is the oldest in the Islands. It is still a house of worship, not an exhibit, and respectful visitors are welcome.

One of the many Kuan Yin representation found in Chinatown and around the Islands.


Flowers offered to the goddess Kuan Yin.


Spotted doves (Streptopelia chinensis) playing at the Kuan Yin Temple.

Finally, no trip to Chinatown is complete without buying Leis. Maunakea street is filled with leis shops where price range from $4 to $25, depending on the length and the complexity of the design. Although the lei custom is purely Polynesian, it is in Chinatown that will find the most extraordinary and affordable garlands. It is fascinating to see the artists, mostly women, armed with a huge needle and creating such amazing patterns.

There are very few "rules" when it comes to wearing a Hawaiian lei. Anyone can wear one, and there need not be an occasion. It is common for locals to have a nut, seed or shell lei on hand to wear on special occasions. There are, however, a couple of "unspoken rules" one should know when receiving a lei for the first time.

A lei should be a welcomed celebration of one person's affection to another. Therefore, always accept a lei, never refuse. The proper way to wear a lei is gently draped over the shoulders, hanging down both in front and in back. It is considered rude to remove a lei from your neck in the presence of the person who gave it to you, so if you must, be discreet...

A leis and flower shop on Maunakea street.


Tropical flowers are "outrageously" inexpensive on Maunakea street.

One of the loveliest aspects of Hawaiian culture is the most fragile. Always given with a kiss, the lei speaks eloquently where words might fail.

To read Part 3 of this article.

For more information

Little Village Noodle House

Open everyday
(Sunday to Thursday: 10:30 am - 10:30 pm, Friday & Saturday: 10:30 am - 12 am.)
The Little Village Noodle House is considered to be the best Chinese restaurant in Honolulu. The restaurant has received over the years many awards from well known magazines such as Gourmet, and Honolulu Magazine.
Our review: After a morning full of discovery, we were quite hungry so we decided on taking 5 appetizers. This allowed us to have a small overview of the restaurant's reputation. Every dishes were very tasty, and we could tell that the ingredients used were fresh (No MSG). We were there on a sunday at lunch time, so the place was not too crowded, and service was fast and friendly. According to other reviews from the Internet, the restaurant can become very busy on Friday and Saturday night, so be prepared to wait for some good chinese food. Our bill was quite affordable at $55 including taxes and gratuity. Our conclusion is that The Little Village Noodle House does really live up to its reputation.
1113 Smith Street
Honolulu, HI 96817
USA
Tel: (808) 545 3008
Website


Duc's Bistro

Open everyday
(Monday to Friday: Lunch (11:00 am 2:00 pm) and Dinner (5:00 pm - 10:00 pm), Saturday & Sunday: Dinner only)
Duc's Bistro is an upscale restaurant serving traditional Vietnamese and classic French cuisine. The service is elegant and refined, and the restaurant also offers a decent wine list and live music.
Our review:The restaurant has excellent reviews in many guides but is unfortunately closed on Sunday for lunch ... which was the day we chose to be in Chinatown. If you are looking for a fine dining experience in the heart of Chinatown, we are still confident this is a place to go.
1188 Maunakea Street
Honolulu, HI 96817
USA
Tel: (808) 531 6325
Website

Oahu Market
Open everyday from 6:00am - 6:00pm
Those interested in Asian cooking will find all the necessary ingredient here, including pigs' head, poultry, fresh octopi, pungent fish sauce, and 1,000-year-old eggs. This market has been at this spot since 1904. (Corner of King and Kekaulike streets).

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Hawaii to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.