Anne-Sophie Pic: Shining star in the Michelin universe

Far from the glitz and glamour of the big cities is where you can sometimes find some unexpected gems. Unexpected is certainly not the case of La Maison Pic which has been reigning over Valence (in the Drome region) since 1889. Four generations of great chefs have successfully succeeded to each other within the same Pic Family. The last three generations of this incredible line of chefs have all been awarded with the most prestigious culinary award that exists on earth … a three Michelin stars rating. André Pic (the grandfather) won the distinction in 1934, Jacques Pic (the father) in 1973 and last but not least, Anne-Sophie Pic in 2007 who at the same time, was elected the “Chef of the Year” by the 8,000 chefs listed in the Michelin Guide. At 37, Anne-Sophie Pic was the first female chef to be awarded three stars since Lyon’s Mère Brazier in 1933.

The bond between the famous red guide and the Pic family is quite obvious as demonstrated by the long display cabinet showcasing all the Michelin Guides Rouges since 1900 in the hotel’s lobby. However, the family bond is even more striking. When her father suddenly died in 1992, Anne-Sophie had just quit the management school she was attending to start her cooking apprenticeship. At the age of 23, and with barely any experience, she took over the family business. Although the pressure could have been more than challenging, Anne-Sophie followed her heart and “made her way into the kitchen” thanks to her complete devotion, hard work and the support and complicity of her husband David Sinapian. 

During all these years, nothing was more important for her than winning back the three stars, a way to honor her culinary heritage. When that happened in 2007, it was with great emotion that she dedicated her third star to her father. Still today, 3 classics invented by Jacques Pic such as the “Sea Bass with Caviar” are still present on the menu. 

We had the chance to visit La Maison Pic in early June. We enjoyed the hotel’s amenities as well as the famous Restaurant Pic. During our stay, a television network was conducting an interview of the world-renowned chef and with great surprise, we discovered a very simple and down to earth person who came to greet us as we were leaving the hotel and enquired about our stay. We were quite lucky to see Madame Pic as since April 2009, she is also the consulting chef at the Beau-Rivage Palace, a deluxe hotel in Lausanne Switzerland.

The lounge has a modern and sophisticated but still cozy feel

Mise en bouche

We choose the “Menu Actualités” (News Menu - €195), which comprises 8 servings. This menu changes often according what is “d’actualité” or in season and most of the produce are sourced locally. Taking a long and elaborated menu is always a challenge. It is hard to say if we will have enough “space” to truly enjoy it all. It is so disappointing, especially in a three stars restaurant, not being able to finish a meal because too many items were on the menu. This did not happen here. La cuisine d’Anne-Sophie Pic was an amazing concert of authentic flavors and lightness."My cooking has never been complicated. I thrive toward more simplicity and authenticity, while having "le goût" (the taste) as my main priority."

Her feminine signature was definitely present in every dish, so was the inspiration she got from her trips to Japan. Delicate, creative and zen. In many aspects, La cuisine d'Anne-Sophie reminded us of Le Bernardin (Eric Ripert) in New York City. Every little bite was a “pure delice” better enjoyed with the eyes closed. Surprisingly, we left the table delighted and light.

The dining room has recently been revamped (2010) by the architect Bruno Borrione, an ex member of the Philippe Stark team. Like the food, the décor is a delicate balance of feminism and modernism, a declination of brown and beige with some splashes of pastel. On the table, heavy baccarat water glasses and beautiful C+B Lefebvre knives, especially made for Anne-Sophie Pic, were elegantly balanced with a simple stem of pink hydrangea. Every element, from the menu to the décor, worked extremely well together. This was sincerely, one of the best culinary experience we ever had. “Chapeau bas!” (Hats off!) Madame Pic, you truly deserve your reputation.

Les Morilles Fraiches (Fresh Morels served with with Reggiano parmesan, morel cream and tarragon)



Madame Pic has a penchant for creating delightful dishes with sea ingredients. Top (One of Madame Pic's signature dish): Le Turbot Côtier (John Dory from our local coast: steamed over, crunchy and fine cucumber puree foamy butter flavored with green anise). Bottom: Les petites langoustines bretonnes (Brittany Small Prawns:
cooked with fava beans from our local producers,“consommé” flavoured with orange blossom)


Palate cleanser et Pre dessert


Desserts are the creation of award-winning Chef Patissier, Philippe Rigollot. Top: La rhubarbe et le Chocolat Jivara lacté (Rhubarb and Milk Jivara:
chocolate marshmallow cube stuffed with rhubarb). Bottom: La cazette et le citron bergamote (Cazette hazelnut and summer lemon: cazette hazelnut cream on a shortbread, summer lemon emulsion and confit).

La Maison Pic is more than just a gastronomical restaurant. It’s also a boutique hotel member of the prestigious Relais et Châteaux chain, an elegant bistro, a cooking school and a culinary boutique. As a mother, Anne-Sophie Pic is also very involved in transmitting her love and the fulfillment she gets from cooking with real and flavorful ingredients to the younger generation. Next week, we will explore more in details the hotel and beautiful rooms of La Maison Pic.

For more information

Le Restaurant Pic
Open for lunch and dinner - closed Sunday and Monday closed 3-26 January
285 Avenue Victor Hugo
26000 Valence
France
Tel: +33 4 75 44 15 32
Website

A la carte, 2 diner menus (€195 and €320) and a lunch menu €84 - Our bill for 3 persons was €827 which included 8 services, wine and coffee.

Anne-Sophie Pic at the Beau Rivage Palace
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Place du Port 17-19
CH 1000 Lausanne 6
Switzerland
Tel: (+41)21/613 33 39
Website

Biography
If you are interested in knowing more about Anne-Sophie Pic and you can read in french, you may be interested in the book she published in 2004 “Au nom du Père” which describes her journey and her gratitude towards her family, especially her father.

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.