Moustiers Ste Marie: Fine Faïence and Medieval Times

You have probably heard or read about Moustiers Sainte Marie. Located in the heart of Haute Provence near the western entrance of the Georges du Verdon, the famous perched village has been featured a countless number times in glossy travel magazines. Moustiers is actually one of the major tourist destinations in France with close to 2 million visitors each year. The dramatic setting and surrounding is certainly a reason of the great popularity the village is experiencing today. Indeed, Moustiers that raises to an altitude of 620m (2000 feet) is comfortably nested in between two giant limestone cliffs that rise hundreds of meters behind it. You can't help but be fascinated by the scenery as you approach the village's entrance through the lower road.

Despite its stunning location, the fame of Moustiers Sainte Marie did not come from geological considerations but rather from its very fine craftsmanship. In the late 17th century, after having endured the hardships of religion wars, plagues and catastrophic landslides, the village became one of the largest and finest production centers of earthenware ("Faïences"). Historic documents found in the Faïence Museum show that the first potters were monks. The legend says that a monk from Faenza in Italy brought the secret technique of producing the white enamel with him. Over the decades, the refinement of ceramics from a utilitarian item to fine tableware gave birth to a new type of artisans which naturally led the village to become, for more than 200 years, the center for design and production of faïence in France.

The popularity of the "Moustiers", as the faïence from Moustiers is called, declined in the 19th century as inexpensive china made in England swamped the French market and by 1873 the last faïencier (Ceramic artisan) closed his shop. Marcel Provence (1892-1951), the Provençal historian and leader of the Félibrige, the Provençal movement founded by Frederic Mistral, was instrumental in reviving the faïence industry in Moustiers in the 1920s*. Today, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie still perpetuates the ceramic craftsmanship tradition with 13 ateliers (workshops) designing faithful replications and new creations. These faïences do come with a high price ticket. However, you can rest assured that these are made by true artisans who use the same processes that were used 400 years ago. Cheaper products made outside the village are also available in some ceramic boutiques. (* Source: Provence Hideaways)

Atelier Saint Michel (Workshop) which has been awarded the "Best Artisan" honor (Meilleur ouvrier de France) by the French President Jacques Chirac in 2000

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Atelier Bondil (Workshop) where fresh field flowers elegantly presented in a Moustier hanging pot are welcoming you.


Blondil’s showroom where you can find some of the finest faïences


More faïences from Blondil's atelier


A ceramic and painting boutique


A ceramic boutique


Some less expensive souvenirs from Moustiers

The village is clustered around the 12th century Notre Dame church, beautifully restored in 1928 during its main revival period. As you walk around the narrow streets and vaulted passages, you realize that Moustiers can’t hide very long its medieval heritage. The village was founded by monks who built an abbey here in 434. At first, they occupied a few caves on the rocky gap and it took them 5 centuries to fortify a permanent village. The town was then ruled by the Lords of the Moustiers family until the 12th century. Over the next 500 years, an unfortunate series of massacre and natural catastrophes ruled the village until it finally reemerged a center of excellence for faïences in the late 17th century.

To get a better feel of the natural beauty of the village as well as the best vista of the area, you can take a walk up to the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel that sits high in the notch above Moustiers. From there, you will enjoy the red-tiled roofs of the village as well as the surrounding hills filled with olive trees, and the Lac de Sainte Croix (Sainte Croix Lake) whose turquoise color is always fascinating.

Flowers are blooming all around the village


Typical Provencal architecture


Medieval narrow streets around the Notre Dame church


A hidden plaza offers some quiet time


Les Biscuits de Moustiers (The Moustiers cookies factory)

Whether you are passionate with medieval history, art or simply enjoy a countryside journey, Moustiers Sainte Marie caters to a lot of different travelers. The Moustiers’ surrounding represents the quintessence of the Haute Provence region: fields of olive trees and lavenders, herds of lambs (and donkeys…) grazing freely on the green hills, red poppies alongside the road…. A true vision of paradise!

Every season has something to offer. However, because of its high popularity, it is better to avoid the Mid July to Mid August season. May, June and September are probably the best time of the year to pay a visit to Moustiers Sainte Marie.

A nice vista van be viewed from the Frederic Mistral road


As with many Provencal villages, fountains are very abundant here


The village viewed from the lower road

Many red poppies called “Coquelicots” are blooming in May, adding beautiful splashes of colors to the landscape

More than 20 000 olive trees grow on the sunny hills around Moustiers giving the landscape its typical soft-green colour all year

A heard of donkeys were grazing at the village entrance

Gastronomic tables in Moustiers Ste Marie

La Bastide de Moustiers (One Michelin star)
Open March 4th to January 3rd, closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays on November & March.
Chemin de Quinson
04360 Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 55 97 97
Website and email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€55 and €70). An intimate atmosphere amid unusual furnishings. Handsome terrace and elaborate Provençale cuisine and menus changing daily. A Alain Ducasse property opened in 1995.

Les Santons de Moustiers
Read our review of this restaurant
Open February to November.
Place de l’Eglise
04360 Moustiers Sainte Marie
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 74 66 48
Website and email

A la Carte and menus (€29 and €38). Nice terrace and a dining-room with the colors of Provence. Tasty Provencal cuisine in the heart of Mosutiers Ste Marie.

La Treille Muscate (Bib gourmand)
Open Feb 11th to Nov 14th, closed Wednesday except lunch off season, and Thursday except July & August.
Place de l’Eglise
04360 Moustiers Sainte Marie
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 74 64 31
Website and email

A la carte and menus (€26 and €43). This nice Provencal bistro has a dining room with simple charm and an attractive terrace (shaded by an old plane tree on the church square). Tasty cuisine.
* A Bib Gourmand rating means the restaurant is an inspector's favorite for good value. For $40 or less, you can enjoy two courses and a glass of wine or dessert (not including tax and gratuity).

L'Olivier (Bib gourmand)
Open from mid February to mid November and closed Monday and Tuesday except July-August. (11 km or 7 miles from Moustiers Ste Marie)
quai Jean-Jaurès
83990 Saint Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 97 03 87
Website

A la carte and menus (€22 lunch and €29/€45 diner). This restaurant, in a village clinging to the cliff, invites you to discover well-presented modern cuisine. Terrace-veranda with a splendid view of Sainte Croix lake.

For more information on Moustier Ste Marie

Moustiers Sainte Marie – Tourism Office
Guided tours available on July & August every Tuesday at 10am (3 €)
Tel: + 33 (0)4 92 74 67 84
Website

Musée de la Faïence de Moustiers (Moustiers’ Faïence Museum)
Close on Tuesday and in January
Guided tours by reservation (8 people minimum)
Visit: 3 €
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 74 61 64

Faïences Bondil à Moustiers
(Owners: Reine and Jean-Pierre Bondil)
Open daily
Workshop visit available upon reservation
Place de l’église
Website  (French)

Atelier Saint Michel
(Owners: Martial and Francoise Baudey)
Open daily
Workshop visit: 3 € refunded with purchase
Website 

For a complete list of all the Faïence workshops and boutiques in Moustiers, click here.

Musée de la Faïence de Marseille

The biggest Faience museum is located in Marseilles. The museum's exhibition is centered on faience pottery from the 17th and 18th centuries in Marseille and Moustiers.

Website

Fresh field flowers from Provence

Interactive map

Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.