Thursday, November 18, 2010

Saint Tropez, village of glamour and tradition

Saint Tropez - Balcony with a view

Known as the playground to jetsetters, fashion models, and millionaires, as well as the place where the mythic Brigitte Bardot was discovered, Saint Tropez is the iconic village that has played a large part in the renown of the Côte d'Azur. Nestled on the emerald blue water of the Bay of Saint-Tropez, the small coastal town is today popular for its line of multimillion dollar yachts, colorful terrace cafés, and continuous stream of exotic cars. There is no mistake to be made ... Saint Tropez is the ultimate place to see and be seen.

The artistic inclination of St Tropez started in the late 19th century, when the neo-impressionist Paul Signac built its house, and hosted famous painters such as Matisse, Charles Camoin, and Maximilien Luce. Little by little, other artists and intellectuals discovered the village, and Saint-Tropez became the birthplace of pictorial avant-garde: Pointillists, Nabis and Fauvists, as well as a centre of Bohemian lifestyle. Pablo Picasso, also contributed in putting the city on the map, when he rented a house in 1951 to spend the summer with his companion at the time, Geneviève Laporte, and drew the famous "Odalisque".

Saint Tropez - Old port
St Tropez "le vieux port" (the old port). The village built itself around this harbor, and Tropezians live essentially off and by the sea.

The real fame of St Tropez came shortly after with the filming of "And God Created Woman" (Et Dieu … créa la femme) in 1956. This cult movie starring the young Brigitte Bardot was set and shot in town. The movie became an instant success, and shortly after its release, high profile show business people, artists and writers, all fell in love with the charming fishing village. A Mecca for the rich and famous jet-setter was created, Saint Tropez became St Trop, and the background for the "Yé-yé" golden era was set. (♬♬ Do you do you do you Saint Tropez? ...♬♬.)

Glamour and luxury are still very present today in Saint Tropez. Competition is rather intense on the old port where spotless multimillion dollar yachts are lining up, and rivaling with each other to see which one is the biggest, the prettiest, the best kept, or has the snappiest crew. For the normal tourist, this is quite a show to see. Numerous terrace cafés, the most famous being Sénéquier, are facing the stage, and "people watching" is definitely part of the fun when you are in St Trop.

Saint Tropez - Luxury Yacht
Competition is strong in the luxurious yacht alley.

Saint Tropez - Sail boat paradise
Sailboats are also strongly present in the Saint-Tropez marina.

Saint Tropez - Sail boats
Many sailboats are participating in the Voiles St. Tropez Sailing Regatta (Voiles de St Tropez) which happen every year in October. This is the final event of the summer in St. Tropez and many say the most exciting event of the entire year for yachting.

Saint Tropez - Port side
Balconies facing the old port and ready for some "People watching" activities.

Legend says that St Tropez is named for its patron, Saint Torpé, who was born in Pisa (Tuscany) under the name of Caius Silvius Torpetius. He was a brilliant officer and was chosen by the emperor to hold the charge of steward of his palace. Discovered to be a Christian, he was martyred for his faith, beheaded in Rome and then placed in a boat with cockerel and a dog, who were supposed to devour his remains. The boat was set adrift, and miraculously arrived with the Saint’s body intact, in what is now called the Golfe de Saint Tropez on May 17th, 68 A.D.

The History of Provence after the downfall of the Roman Empire has not been accurately handed down. Findings suggest that it was in the Middle Age period that the town was truly established. Devastated by too many religious wars, a Genoese nobleman, Rafaele di Garrezzio, along with 21 Genoese families were entrusted in 1470 to occupy and repopulate, fortify and defend the city and surrounding shores on the condition that the inhabitants be free of all levels of taxes, and be free to administer their own affairs. Thus was born the so-called Republic of Saint Tropez, largely independent from the French Kingdom. Its "Privileges", were ratified by King Louis the 11th in 1481, and all his successors until they were repealed by Louis the 14th in 1672.

In the 17th and 18th century, the town became well known for producing fine sailors, navigators and naval strategists, greatly appreciated by the merchant and royal navies. The development of steamships heralded the decline of the Port, but St Tropez will soon reemerge as an artistic center at the end of the 19th century.

Walking around the old town is an incursion in medieval time. The vaulted passages, narrow streets, and restored buildings are all here to remind us of the city's rich heritage.

Saint Tropez old town
All of the town of St Tropez is listed as a historical district, particularly the façades of the houses on the harbor like shown here, and the port itself.

Saint Tropez - Narrow streets in the old town
Narrow streets are typical of the Medieval era.

Saint Tropez - Old town
Some old buildings still retains their charm and authenticity. Those hidden treasures are made of tiny architectural details, vulnerable and fragile traces of Saint Tropez past, which are not protected but are nevertheless highly interesting historically.

Saint Tropez old town
Historical buildings around the harbor.

Shopping in Saint Tropez is a de rigueur activity. All the shops located in the old town, offer a wide selection of products that can satisfy any appetite and budget. For an authentic taste of Provence, I recommend the typical Provençal market held every Tuesday and Saturday morning in the Place des Lices. This main place is also where you will find locals playing pétanque in the afternoon, while enjoying a glass of wine.

Another major Provençal event is Les Bravades (or "act of defiance"), which originally was a procession in honor of a town's patron saint, but is now a colorful Provençal festival. These provençal traditional celebrations are held throughout Provence but take a an much deeper meaning in Saint-Tropez where they have been perpetuated on May the 16th 17th and 18th for over 440 years.

No visit to St Tropez is complete without a taste of La tarte Tropézienne (Tropezian pie), a cream cake elaborated by the local baker Alexandre Micka during the filming of "And God Created Woman". Under the advice of Brigitte Bardot, who, along with the other casts of the movie where captivated by the cream cake, the inventor registered the name and patented the recipe. A new legend was born: La tarte Tropézienne, dessert of the stars. The original bakery is still present and has opened multiple locations around town. Other bakeries are also offering their own version of this local dessert. (I am presenting a recipe of la tarte Tropézienne in my next article)

Saint Tropez - Prints for sale around the harbor
Many prints and paintings are for sale around the old port.

Typical Saint Tropez - Bazar Mercerie
Traditional store: Bazar Mercerie "Chez Eugenie" on number 16 of rue Gambetta.

La tarte tropézienne (The famous Tropezian pie)
The famous Tarte Tropeziénne and the bakery that invented it.

Flower market - Saint Tropez
Flower market on Market street (Rue du Marché)

If you have an affinity with luxury, Saint Tropez will not let you down. All the major high fashion designers and brands have their boutiques in one of the narrow streets or around the old port. This is also here that you will find one of the three outlets that sell the original spartiates tropéziennes created by Jacques Kéklikian in 1933 but still very much in fashion. Over the years, the house has created many models for fashion designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Missoni, Givenchy, Balanciaga or Catherine Malendrino.

If shopping is not your bag, many VIP beaches are located along the Baie de Pampelonne, south of St Tropez and east of Ramatuelle. There, you can rent a beach lounge for €50 and have Champagne and Beluga caviar with other fellow jet setters before heading to one of the exclusive nightclub to dance your night away... so, will you Saint Tropez this summer?

Hermes - Saint Tropez
Hermes boutique on Place Georges Grammond

Louis Vuitton - Saint Tropez
Louis Vuitton boutique on Sibille street

Saint Tropez - Luxury the French Riviera way
The VIP Papagayo night club is open fridays and saturdays from midnight onward. Don't mind the attitude there. You could be refused the entrance if your "style" does not meet their standards.

St. Tropez's true nature can only truly be appreciated outside the high season. The best time to visit Saint Tropez is in May, June and September. During these months, you will avoid the tourist crowd and be able to enjoy all the little streets and alleys that give St Trop. all its charm.


Gastronomic tables around St Tropez

Vague d'Or Restaurant at Résidence de la Pinède (Two Michelin stars)
Evening only, from April 28th to October 2th inclusive.
Plage de la Bouillabaisse
83990 Saint Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 55 91 00
Website and email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€95 and €195). Chef Arnaud Donckele prepares an inventive cuisibe, a dialogue of flavours and textures of the best of Mediterranean produce. Very attentive service.

Restaurant Villa Belrose (One Michelin star)
Open April 2nd to October 24th Closed on lunch time in July and August
bd des Crêtes
83580 Saint Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 55 97 97
Website and email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€95 and €125). Elegant restaurant in a Florentine style with a pleasant terrace overlooking the gulf. Updated gourmet menu.

Restaurant Les Santons
Read my article this restaurant
Open everyday except monday and tuesday on the low season. Closed annualy from November 12 to December 15. (9.5km or 6 miles from Saint Tropez)
3 RD 558
83310 Grimaud
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 43 21 02
Website and email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€35 and €58). Classic cuisine served in a rustic decor graced with painted clay figurines (santons), copperware and fresh flowers.

Auberge la Verdoyante (Bib gourmand)
Open Feb 6th to Nov 1rst, closed Monday for lunch and all day wednesday.
866 chemin vicinal Coste Brigade
83990 Saint Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 55 91 00
email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€27 and €50). Appetizing regional cuisine served on the terrace overlooking the bay of St Tropez or in a charming Provençal decor with fireplace.
* A Bib Gourmand rating means the restaurant is an inspector's favorite for good value. For $40 or less, you can enjoy two courses and a glass of wine or dessert (not including tax and gratuity).

Le Girelier
Open March 15th to October 30th.
quai Jean-Jaurès
83990 Saint Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 97 03 87
Website and email

A la carte and 1 Menu (€29 lunch and €39 diner). This chic harbor side fishermen‘s hut in the colors of the sea, serves simply cooked but tasteful shellfish platters, fish of the day and bouillabaisse.

Hostellerie les Georges de Pennafort (One Michelin star)
Read my article this restaurant
(29 miles / 47Km from St Tropez.)
Closed from mid January to mid March. Closed on Sunday and Monday for dinner (Except July - August) and Wednesday for lunch.

Route de Callas
83830 Callas
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 76 66 51
Website and email

A la carte and 2 Menus (€60 and €140, Lunch €49). Chef Da Silva prepares a tasty and inventive cuisine in a contemporary, Art Deco style dining room. Well-stocked cellar. Very generous portions!

Regatta

For more information on Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez Tourism
The Saint Tropez Tourism Office Website is gold mine of information on current events as well as main attraction site in the hottest city on the French Riviera. The multilingual staff is friendly and helpful, and excellent maps and informational brochures are available 7 days a week
Quai Jean Jaurès
83990 Saint-Tropez
Tel: +33 (0)4 94 97 45 21


Saint Tropez - Sail boats

Interactive map
Check out our interactive map of Provence to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.


2 comments:

  1. Hi Sandra

    We were in Saint Tropez in June and we fell in love with the place. Your photos are a wonderful reminder of the lovely day and evening we spent there. We plan to return in 18 months time - your post convinces me there is a lot more for us to see.
    Merci!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Sherivon, Thank you for your lovely comment and your mention of me in your blog. I'm so happy you will be spending 18 months in St Tropez. You will love it.

      Merci a vous!!

      Delete

Thank you for stopping by. I will be very happy to read your comments and questions.

Sandra