Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Spottswoode Cabernet, an Authentic Napa Grand Cru

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (St Helena, CA)

It's on a wet morning of December that we passed the gates of one of the smaller, but nevertheless most respected winery in Napa Valley. An instant coup de foudre after we tasted an incredible Cabernet Sauvignon, brought us to the Califonian wine country. We were lucky to get 4 spots on the winery tour, Spottswoode Estate is giving twice a week. An intimate encounter with one of the Gran Cru vineyards of the Napa region, is worth braving any moody weather. Far from other larger houses that clearly understand and excel with marketing concepts, understated Spottswoode just need to present its Caberbet Sauvignon Estate to win the heart of the most difficult wine critics.

Welcome to Spottswoode Estate Vineyards & Winery a world filled with authenticity and artisan's passion. For more than twenty-five years, the 40-acre Spottswoode Estate Vineyard has become quite a phenomenon in the Napa world, thanks to the extraordinary qualities of its Cabernet Sauvignon. Because of its size, the estate only produces a limited quantity of the cabernet* that is released each year to a short list of fine wine stores, restaurants and individuals. If you live outside the US, only in major embassies will it be possible to have a sip of it. The White House has also been serving the Cabernet Sauvignon during State dinners.
As an example, the 2008 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon will be released on Sept 1, 2011 with the following quantity: 1,954 cases of 750 ml. ($136 per bottle) and 220 cases of magnums ($290 per magnum).

The estate also produces 3 other wines in small quantities: Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc*, Lyndenhurst**, their companion estate Cabernet Sauvignon, and the recently-introduced Field Book***, their Rhone style wine from Paso Robles.
* App. 2,500 cases every year ($36 / bottle)
** App. 500 - 800 cases every year ($60 / bottle)
*** App. 175 cases every year ($45 / bottle)


Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (St Helena, CA)
The Spottswoode Estate tour is a great opportunity to meet the owners of this exceptional winery, as well as getting up to speed with their latest news.

Spottswoode Estate Vintage cellar (St Helena, CA)
Spottswoode's historic pre-Prohibition stone cellar. The old sandstone structure was built in 1884 by Frank Kraft, and was then known as the Kraft winery until the late 1880s. Renovated in 1990 by the Novaks, it is currently used to barrel age their fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon.

Spottswoode Estate Kraft cellar (St Helena, CA)
The Spotswoode cabernet are spending two years in these barrels under the constant care of the Spottwoode Estate winemakers (Aron Weinkauf, Landon Donley, and Rosemary Cakebread). Each barrel are custom-made in France by real artisans, and can cost up to $1,000 each. In order to preserve the cabernet identity, these barrels are only used for 2 years.

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (St Helena, CA)
"When the history of Napa's great vineyards is written, the 40-acre Spottswoode vineyard, tucked behind the quaint town of St Helena, will be counted among the finest grand cru vineyards of the region." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.

Located on the western edge of St. Helena in Napa Valley, the 46-acre estate was established in 1882 by George Schonewald, a German immigrant. He christened the property "Esmeralda" and planted the original 17 acres of wine grapes on the then 31-acres property. Upon the death of his wife in 1906, Shonewald sold his "Esmeralda" estate to Joseph Bliss who will resale it two years later to Dr George Allen. Drawn to its gentle, idyllic nature, and in honor of the four linden trees that grace the garden, Dr Allen and his wife renamed the property "Lynderhurst", and made many improvement to the estate. In 1910, the property is sold again to Mrs Albert Spotts family who renamed the property "Spottswoode" in memory of her late husband.

With the threat of Prohibition looming, the Spotts family nevertheless plantes the Spottswoode vineyard to a field blend of Green Hungarian, French Colombard, and Petite Sirah grapes, perahps with the hope that the Eighteenth Amendment to the Constitution, banning the manufacture, sale, and transportation of alcohol, would not be ratified. During the years 1919 to 1933, prohibition takes hold in the US and the Spottswoode Estate falls into disrepair. Reluctant to part the property and unable to earn money though the vineyard, the Spotts family survives by selling grapes to the Christian Brothers Winery, who make sacramental wine. After the repeal of Prohibition, Spottswoode begins to sell fruit from their revitalized estate vineyard to the St Helena Wine cooperative, for under $300 per ton.

In 1972, Dr Jack and Mary Novak purchased the 31-acre Spottswoode Estate and moved their family of five children to St Helena. Encouraged by the temperate climate and the remarkable composition of the soil, the Novaks immediately purchase an additional 15 acres of bordering land, increasing the estate's total acreage to its current 46 acres.

Knowing little about wine growing but pleased to have found a property with a beautiful garden, a home large enough to raise five children, and a vineyard to play with, Jack decode to replant their pre-Prohibition vineyards to Cabernet Sauvignon, Zifandel and Sauvignon Blanc. In 1977, Jack Novack tragically and suddenly passed away. True to the vision she shared with her husband, Mary Novak begins managing the estate and selling the grapes to various Napa Valley families, among the Shafers and the Duckhorns.

Exactly 100 years after the estate's beginnings, Mary Novak officially founds Spottswoode Winery and produces its first Cabernet Sauvignon and bring Tony Soter on board as her winemaker. The 1982 vintage numbers 1,200 cases and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. At this time, Mary also grafted the existing Zinfandel grapes on the property to Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Later on, two of her daughters come on board: Beth Novak, the youngest Novak daughter, steps into the role of President of Spottswoode, while Lindy Novak, Mary's oldest daughter, begins to oversee sales effort nationwide.

In 1991, Spottwoode produces its 10th Anniversary Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary vintage which will start the legend ... The creation of an extraordinary wine, lush and expressive in its youth and that continues to evolve beautifully over time.

Spottswoode Estate (St Helena, CA)
The majestic Victorian home was build in 1885 by George Schonewald, emulates the luxurious Hotel del Monte in Monterey, California, a resort which Mr. Schonewald once managed during an earlier career in hospitality. The Novaks who purchased the property in 1972, restored the original home which is depicted on every Spottswoode Estate wine labels.

Spottswoode Estate - Fountain (St Helena, CA)
Designing and planting formal gardens on his "Esmeralda" property, George Schonewald chooses an exotics mix of flora that still flourish today.

Spottswoode Estate  (St Helena, CA)
Every year, Spott On! members enjoy the unique opportunity to be the guests for an afternoon of wine tasting and hors d'oeuvres in the gardens of the estate home of Spottswoode owner, Mary Novak. To become a member, you have to buy six bottles or more, of Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. (Price was $780 for a 6-pack of 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon).

An important characteristic of Spottswoode, beside producing some of the most wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon, is their responsible and environmental commitment. Indeed, the estate has been farming their vineyard organically since 1985, and have been certified by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) since 1992. That initiative was started well before it became "trendy", by Tony Soter who was at that time the estate winemaker and vineyard manager, and who had a great interest in organic farming. He introduced the notion to Mary Novak, who agreed to pursue it.

Since then, their enthusiasm for and attention to environmental responsibility has only increased, trying to be the "best possible stewards of our 45-acre estate property." A good example of this engagement is the use of renewable energy. Spottswoode production facility and many aspects of the estate, from the vineyard well pumps to the tractor shed and pool and electric car, are 100% powered by solar energy.

Biodynamic practices are newly introduced throughout the property. The estate maintains a variety of flowering plants along the border of the vineyard to provide habitats for beneficial bugs that prey on undesirable insects. Each plant has been carefully selected to ensure a flowering sanctuary for our hardworking insect friends throughout the growing season. They also provide nesting boxes for native birds, including bluebirds, green-winged swallows and owls that feast on insects and rodents, and encourage the diversity in their vineyard.

Finally, the Novak family really believes in giving back to the community. Spottswoode funds and supports numerous organizations particularly those that benefit the children of St. Helena and the environment. The biggest event of the year is the "Auction Napa Valley", a three-day fund-raising marathon held around Napa every June, and supported by many local cellars, vineyards and wineries. In 2010, Beth and Mary Novak co-chaired the event that helped raised 8.6 million dollars.

Spottswoode - Organic vineyards (St Helena, CA)
Working with Mother Nature: Spottswoode has embraced numerous biodynamic principals to promote organic farming. The Estate is also member of 1% For The Planet, a growing global movement of over 1000 companies that donate 1% of their sales to a network of environmental organizations worldwide.

Olive trees along the border of the Spottswoode Estate
The Spottswoode Estate is bordered by roughly one hundred and fifteen olive trees, ranging in age from ten to eighty years old. Like their grapevines, these olive trees are farmed organically since 1996, and are certified by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). Spottswoode has contracted with Long Meadow Ranch to press their olives, and the oil produced is becoming part of the Long Meadow Ranch’s Napa Valley Select Extra Virgin Olive Oil blend.

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (St Helena, CA)
"Spottswoode's Estate wines provide the argument that there are still wines of balance and elegance produced in Napa Valley... Spottwoode wines are expressive in their youth and continue to age seamlessly." Daniel O'Brien, Wine & Spirit Director at the Murray Circle restaurant.

"When is a particular wine at its “best”? This is a question that is often posed, and one that is almost impossible to answer. Why? Because wine is a living, evolving entity, and like we humans, it does not have one particular moment in its life at which it is “optimal.” It goes through many stages, some good and some less so, which is what makes wine—and the human race—so intriguing!."

All Cabernet Sauvignons produced on the estate follow the same life cycle. The first year in barrel is a time when the winemaker is monitoring the progress of a very young wine. Each vintage is initially comprised of many lots, representing different blocks of the estate vineyard, and all at different stages of development. The winemaker will have to take the critical decision on which lots will be kept separate to see how they will develop, and which ones will be blended together as the “core blend". The second year in the barrel is the exciting time when the winemaker team is finally able to have a first taste of the Cabernet, and discover some of the specificities of what this vintage will exhibit.

The next step is the bottling phase which is known to create a bottle shock phase that can last up to one year. Once this little separation anxiety crisis is over, the Cabernet Sauvignon regains its showy and youthful quality. That would also be the time when the Spottswoode Estate releases this new vintage to the public.

For the next four or five years after release, the Cabernet remains youthful, exhibiting the classic “Spottswoode-esque” deep plum color and forward, exuberant fruit. After that stage, the wine will enter what Spottswoode will call the "dreaded teenage years", characterized by some potential awkward nuances inherent with any transformation from a young to a more mature state.

After roughly two or three years, the wine re-emerges and begins to express a greater subtlety while displaying some new characteristics altogether. The wine is also better with food at this stage, as it does not overwhelm with its youthful, fruity forwardness. From this point on the Cabernet Sauvignon goes through stages, some better than others, and ages gracefully until finally, at some point, it hits a plateau from which it may go no higher and from which it will ultimately fall.

If you are still confused about when to drink your Spottswoode Cabernet, the estate is producing every year a little booklet that includes the "Wine Library Notes" recorded during their annual vertical tasting, usually held in November. These notes give a detailed description of each vintage, which of course will be evolving from one year to the other, and with the precious recommendation as whether to Drink, Try or Hold it.

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (St Helena, CA)
The Victorian farmhouse which currently houses Spottswoode's office, was originally built in 1884 by John Kraft who also built the stone cellar. The historic building was completely restored in 1992 by the Novak family, and won the same year an Award of Merit from Napa County Landmarks in 1992.

Spottswoode Vineyard - Wine tasting
To ensure the highest quality, Spottswoode is dedicated to producing a handful of wines in very limited quantities: Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Starting at $136), Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon (Starting at $60), and Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc (Starting at $36). These are the 3 wines you will be tasting during the Estate tour, in the same historic building where the Spottswoode office are located.

Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Magnum
Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - Magnum (1.5L) $265 - 95 points (Robert Parker)
"Two exquisite Cabernet Sauvignons that are among the most profound made in Napa Valley, both are candidates for Cabernet Sauvignon of their respective vintages. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, which has taken on much greater complexity and intensity since I tasted it right after bottling, is largely all Cabernet Sauvignon with just a small amount of Cabernet Franc in the blend ... This wine, which I believe will evolve for 25 or more years has a gorgeous nose of violets, black currants, licorice, camphor, and a hit of graphite. Layered, rich, and full-bodied, the wine has an opaque purple color as well as wonderful purity and balance. It could be considered the wine world’s version of haute couture at a top address in Paris. It’s a beauty, perfectly balanced and as flawless and seamless as a 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa can be. Drink it over the next 25 years." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate (December, 2009).


Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 - $195.

After a morning full of discovery and incredible wine tasting, it will be time to find a good table for the lunch which won't be a difficult task. Indeed, Napa Valley has nothing to envy to more urban environment, as plenty of Michelin star-rated restaurants have established themselves in this beautiful wine country. The tricky part will be which one to choose ...


For more information on Spottswoode

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery
1902 Madrona Avenue
St Helena, CA, 94574
Tel: +1 (707) 963 0134
Website
Arrange for a visit, Tuesday and Fridays only at 10 am. Since space is very limited (10 - 12 guests), we recommend to call four to six weeks in advance. A credit card will hold your reservation. The charge is $25 per person which is credited toward a minimum purchase of six bottles.


Review from wine experts

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
"This historic estate, tucked behind the town of St. Helena in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains, was established in 1882, and is run by one of the grand ladies of Napa, Mary Novak, along with her daughter, Beth. These have long been very good, classic wines, but over the last 10–15 years, their quality has soared into the upper echelon of the Napa hierarchy."

Daniel Shanks of the Ushers Office at the Executive Residence, The White House
“Wine is often selected in the White House not just for superlative flavor and balance but, also, to show a focus or theme that resonates with the First Family. The President and Mrs. Obama requested we look to organically farmed wineries that are paradigms for the industry, accenting the efforts already in pace with the new White House Garden and cuisine. We, naturally, turned to Spottswoode as a long time steward of the land and of viticulture sustainability. The excellence in bottle just added to the unforgettable memories of the evening. It is an honor to serve Spottswoode wines in the White House.”


Bouchon bistro (Yountville, CA)


Nearby gastronomic tables

The Wine Country is a fabulous place to dine. With two 3-stars restaurants (French Laundry, and Meadowood), one 2-stars (Cyrus) and thirteen 1-star, you will have plenty of option to satisfy your gastronomical craving. On Lunch time, only 1 star restaurants are open, with the exception of the Cyrus on Saturdays. During our visit, we decided to stop at Bouchon Bistro, Thomas Keller's bistro. Located just across the French Laundry, Bouchon is a busy place with the ambiance and energy of a typical Parisian bistro.

Bouchon Bistro
Open daily, serving lunch and dinner, between 11:00 am and 12:30 am.
6534 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
Tel:+1 (707) 944-8037

Our review:
The food was tasty and certainly fresh, although quite predictable. The service was definitely not meeting the standard of a one-star restaurant, and the tables were quite small. Overall, we had a true french bistro restaurant experience at a one Michelin-star price. If you are looking for a Parisian diversion while visiting Napa, then this is the place to be... Not to forget the best part, the Bouchon bakery located right outside the door, which will probably tempt you with some delicious patisseries or freshly made macarons.


Spottswoode - Vineyard (St Helena, CA)

Interactive map
Check out our interactive map of California to see where I took all the pictures featured in this article.

1 comment:

  1. Hi Sandra. How are you? I have seen some of your photos on Flickr and I think they are impressive. happy to find your blog, is stunning and full of inspiration. I would like to make the photos as well as you :-) Congratulations!

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for stopping by. I will be very happy to read your comments and questions.

Sandra